I've got so much on my mind tonight that I can't seem to sit down and read these chapters for school tomorrow.
First. I moved today. That's a major life change. Moving sucks. I painted my new room and the color's name is : Mermaid's Song. Sooo beautiful. I love it. Feels good to be in a place where I feel comfortable with my surroundings. It will be hard not living on Grant where my favorite surf spot is... but its only a couple minutes away. Be positive. Everything's gonna be alright.
Another thing on my mind is: Surfboards. I know, right, of course I'm thinking about surfboards? I think it's amazing how people (and their craft) can influence me. There are a few people I would like to recognize tonight for their immense contributions to my life and I am forever grateful. Gary Hogue-- for his influence of beginning to shape. I learned the love from him. I knew nothing about shaping before I met him. Secondly, Ken Moore. I owe him almost every thing I know. So forever grateful-- we have completed 7 boards I believe. He is an incredible mentor and now family to me. Thank you Ken for all your help over the past two years. "Don't worry, wax can cover it." Earl Moore-- what an amazing person who has totally influence 'the fish' into my life. From Earl, I have learned the passion of creating and riding boards and making life surround the art of surfing and shaping. Thank you. Retro fish are siiiiick. There are several other people who I would like to mention as well: Brian "Surfteach", Eli Mirandon, John Mellor, Noel Whitman, Dan Howard, Foam EZ guys, and Guilhem Rainfray. Such influence.
The last thing is that I received some incredible compliments today about my board. Thank you so much for this. It made my day. .. my life. Here it is:
"See photo below of Whitney wading out with her nice new fish. That board turned out great and sets the bar pretty high. I looked it over and IMO it was one of the most nicely finished boards there."- John Mellor. Also, "Whitney's (Ethereal Prodigy) fish was top notch for sure."- Chris Palmer
So that's how life goes. I'm blessed to be where I am, who I know, and what I am doing. May my life continue to be led in the right direction.
Next we headed north up the 1 and ended up at Plaskett Creek which is south of Big Sur. When we pulled in the parking lot, I saw John and Guilhem! I was stoked! This is where the Swaylocks camp-out was located. It was really awesome to meet quite a few of my Sway brothers for the first time. They were stoked to meet one of the two girls on the forum. Had a great time talking story and looking at boards.
Have to note a few hilarious things: finally found out who Resinhead was after two years of thinking he was a 65+ year old man who just sat behind his computer all day and ranted but he actually turned out to be a nice guy in real life. Also, when we rolled up and talked to the camp hostess, she gave Afran and I a hard time about 'rocking the truck at night...' haha. We'll never live that one down.
It was a wild time. Surfed some huge waves, met great people, and had a lot of drinks!!
Afran and I ended up in Pismo Beach for the night when we turned off the 101 and found out that you can drive and camp on the beach. I've been by Pismo quite a few times and have never stopped. So we got an overnight pass, found a spot and made out camp!
It was soooo rad! Everything was perfect. We had our camp set up in no time and made a delicious dinner on the beach! After the sunset, the moon was extremely bright and lit up the entire sky. We woke up to waves crashing right outside the truck. Incredible!
A couple funny things to note: named a seagull Clancy and from now on every seagull is called "Clancy". This seagull in particular was ridiculous. Next, when we were having our morning coffee and breakfast, these idiots decided to roll through the beach campground area and decide to stop directly in front of us. Mind you, this is a huge beach. They stop there for an hour blocking our beautiful view of the ocean. HA we laughed for hours about that. Then, on the way up to Big Sur, we see these cows on the side of the road and Afran starts honking the horn and yelling, "Do you cows know how lucky you are!!!!!!!!!" HAHAH.
There's something to be said about holding one's breath. Something surreal and magical. How do we, as humans, survive under water without breathing? We don't have gills. Although I think I am half mermaid hah, the other half of me is truly human.
Here's what I think. When surfing, holding my breath is very important because its the way I survive the dive under waves or when being thrashed in shore break. As I am holding my breath and fighting to reach the surface, nothing else matters except that breath. Nothing but that matters. No stress, pain, agony, anger... nothing. It might seem selfish, but we are humans. We're known for being independent.
So apply that to life. We don't need a ton of materialistic things. Live a simple life. From breath to breath.
Be at peace with who you are and where you are at. Next time you duckdive a wave or go over the falls, remember to live simply. When one ceases to breathe, their whole world ends.
Yesterday was a very exciting and busy day! Started out surfing for a couple hours at 56th street. Fun little lefts off the jetty. It was good to be in the water even though it was chilly. Biked home.
Next, went stand-up paddling in the back bay at NAC. Super fun and they even found a tiny baby shark (it was dead and smelled dead). Hah, I guess it was funny today that I fell in because it was so choppy... I didn't think so at the time because it was cold!
Quite an eventful day with many enjoyable good times.
TGIF. Surfed 56th northside tonight but there weren't really any waves, just a few crappy corners to play on. As I was riding up to park my bike, I saw a very amazing surf legend- John Peck. What an incredible man- very kind and friendly. We chatted for a bit and it felt good to hear someone else say, "It's good to get in the water."
Faith is an interesting word that can be applied to several different things in life. By definition, Faith is: confidence or trust in a person or thing; belief that is not based on proof; belief in God; the objection of loyalty, and so on.
Maybe there are some rough things going on in your life right now... like there are in mine. That's what this blog is for: reviving, re-energizing, and relieving the stresses in life. Giving yourself a better perspective by enlightening your soul with beautiful people, places, and things.
Going through life without having faith in yourself is probably the worst mindset. Believe in your strong-willed attitude.
So I'll leave with this, the sea doesn't care how much money you have (or don't have). She's not judgmental. It's all about the freedom of expression.
So Labor Day is supposed to celebrate Summer's end, right? Well it sure didn't feel like summer on the coast but that didn't stop us from having fun! Headed down to San Diego to spend the day with Afran. Took out the boat with the intentions of sipping cocktails in the warm sunshine but instead we found ourselves shivering in the cold and windy bay. We made it look real inviting, though. Thanks for an amazing 24 hours!
Ohhh and by the way, there's no waves. And we haven't had waves for a while now.......... come on SS's!!
Ever since Stand-Up Paddling hit the market & 'scene', I never thought I'd get into it. Soooo many people slammed it with terrible nicknames, stereotypes and whatever.. But yesterday, for the first time, I tried out SUP. Since it was about 5 PM, the sun wasn't shining (what's new?) so I wore shorts, shirt and a flannel. Went out with my friend Brian in Dana Point Harbor. We paddled a couple miles and I never fell off! Not bad for a first-timer. I don't think anyone could tell it was my first time. HAH.
So I guess I have a challenge. Get really good at SUP. Enter some contests... get sponsored? IDK. Wishful thinking? It's possible. Well have to wait and see! Well... and see if I can afford a board!! I need a deal.. can anyone hook it up?
Ohhh also yesterday, I cracked the fishtail on my orange fish........... BUMMER dude.