I've been working really hard lately. But all that hard work has paid off & my newest creation is born. I've reached out of my comfort zone of surfing quads and have ventured into the Bonzer world. I asked my fin man Jack to make me some long Bonzer fins for this new 5'8" super fast board. Took it out for the first time at Swamis today. The waves were 4-6 feet and occasionally bigger. It was windy & stormy. There were only a handful of guys out. And me. Everyone was out there to catch waves. I took off on a cresting peak, made the drop and the fins locked in immediately in the turn. I flew down the line, flying up and down the wave. I couldn't be more overjoyed. The feeling was unmatchable. The paddle out was tough but I had so much adrenaline leftover from that wave that I paddled back with a huge grin on my face. I wish I had a video of it. I continued to get wave after wave. Perfect, reeling lefts and rights. This board WORKS amazing.
I'm not one to say where I surf all the time but I do have my favorite spots and Point Loma is definitely one of them. I love taking our boat out there where no one is around && the waves are super fun. I enjoyed this day.