I got such good waves this weekend. 2-4ft, occasional 5ft. beautiful, barreling, and incredible. Surfed: Friday: 32nd with Hotsoup. Saturday: RJs/Orange solo sesh Sunday: RJ's solo Monday: RJ's solo Tuesday: RJ's with DLC and the boys Wednesday: Nomans with Willy
Here's what I've been thinking. I notice that I enjoy surfing River Jetties the most. I'm wondering why-- there are better spots in Newport but I tend to want to surf there. Mostly on the Newport side, but occasionally if its better, at Nomans, or on Huntington side. It has become my 'comfort zone'. You can ride any kind of board there-- long or short. There are several different waves to choose from.
This is kind of like life-- we become so comfortable with where we are, that we forget to venture out and go new places. It's not always a bad thing... not sure what to think about it.
I've been a little MIA lately... but glassing this board is going alright. The bottom turned out great. The top... well its alright. Maybe its due to the paint? I don't know. But the resin wasn't saturating the cloth very well. And I used A LOT! Hmmm. Well hopefully the hotcoat will cover up the bad stuff.
I met this guy tonight who just by looking at him I could tell he was a waterman. There's something about that 'look'... We chatted for a while... It feels so good to talk about surfing and surf boards. We share that common ground.
It feels like things are coming together for my 'company'... I guess you could call it that. Even though I haven't sold any surfboards (and did not intend to up until this point) but I am starting the market myself. A shaper friend offered to print up some of my logos for me to put on my boards under the glass. I'm stoked! Can't wait to see how the come out.
Yesterday I had a message from a local shaper, Surfding (Michael Ward), who I've met before and been to his shop. He calls himself a glorified garage shaper, but really, he's brilliant. He gave me a pre-shaped blank that the nose was broken off. So he helped me reshape, draw a template, fix the rocker and foil... for a brand new board I can glass! So rad. He's such a generous person. And how does he do those f@*king rails?!
So I'm ready to glass. I have 2 short boards ready-- just need to buy the resin and cloth, boxes and thats about it!
I'll post a photo of it soon, hate to move it so much.
it was about 1 foot with a potential 2 ft. hmm... can't say it was epic. but all that matters is being in the water.
even at my young age, i know one thing is true. you won't regret paddling out. there might be some agros dominating the line up, or a kook dropping in on you, or possibly having to wait an hour for a set...
but truly, if you look beyond the distractions - ITS SUCH A BLESSING.