For a while now, we haven't had waves and it's tough to be motivated to surf 1 foot slop.
On the positive side, I have started body surfing more & really enjoy it.
When swimming around, I realize how beautiful the ocean is below the surface.
I really don't like eel grass and kelp but while swimming I didn't mind it.
We spent three weeks in Bali but that definitely wasn't enough time there. The waves were insane and nothing like we have back here in California. Even on the biggest swell, those reefs in Bali were waaaay bigger.
I took some of the biggest drops in my life. Just the sight of a set on the horizon made me anxious. One wrong move and it was a crushing blow.
On the first day, I was riding a new board & it was about 6-10 feet and the current was super strong. The paddle out wasn't too tough except for the current which took me all the way around the wave. So at that point I paddled through Racetracks and over to the Bombie. I watched as guys were getting huge barrels, some with their hands stretched in the air showing how big their barrel was. I took off on a wave, made the drop and ended up not making the wave. As I was paddling back out, a huge set came through and as I was duck diving, I lost my board due to the force and my leash snapped! I was left with the cuff and my new pink board was no where to be found. I took several waves to the head and with no floatation device, I was struggling. I thought I was going to die. It was the closest to death I've ever felt. I wanted to make deals with God so I would be saved, but couldn't think fast enough. I heard the lifeguard whistling from the cliff and all of a sudden I saw this long-haired man paddling towards me with my pink board and his board trailing behind. My life was saved! I thanked the Australian over and over and couldn't be more grateful. But that wasn't the end. I had to paddle back to the cave entrance. It was impossible, I was being swept down and there wasn't any beach I could just float up to, it was shear cliffs with no end in sight. Another Australian guy came up to me and offered some advice: to paddle all the way down to Padang Padang. I was like, "Where is Padang Padang?!" Hysterical. I could hardly speak. He pointed to some buildings at least a mile or two away. That was my only option. So after I survived this insane drowning, I paddled for what seemed to be a year and finally I put my two feet on the coarse sand at Padang Padang beach. Next, I had to walk up the super high staircase. My body was burning I could hardly move. When I finally made it to our villa, I collapsed in the pool trying to cool my body down. It was an insane event that I hope never to repeat. So thankful for the two men who helped me out I wouldn't be here if it wasn't for those angels.
How can I even begin. Bali was an incredible place & has always been my dream, especially after hearing the amazing travel stories from my friends, Carlos and Annie.
Bali was everything I had imagined and more! The ocean smelled different, driving through Kuta was wild and scary but once we arrived at Uluwatu everything seemed to relax. The local Balinese people were so kind and treated us like family.
I enjoyed walking down the uneven stairs all the way to the beach. And not only Uluwatu was like this, Padang Padang, Bingin, Impossibles... all the spots until we went up to Canggu.
This photo ^ is Uluwatu on a really big day! Not too many people surfing
Here I am walking in Echo Beach. Construction was everwhere
Echo Beach in Canggu looking real fun!
Checking out the reefs at Uluwatu. Should have been out there surfing it was firing!
Here I am in PRINT- featured in this German Surfers Magazine I cannot believe it. A few years ago when I started making surfboards, I never thought I would get this type of publicity! I feel so honored and blessed, even if it is in another language.
Here's their website: http://surfersmag.mpora.de/
I've been away from here for a little bit but want to keep it updated with all the things I've been doing recently. I shaped several new boards recently and super stoked on them.
Here's part of the build process of a little 5'7" shortboard. I have been experimenting with pink laminations and since flouro pink is pretty much non-existent, I am exploring other avenues of pigments and such I can mix with resin. This was my first try with the new pigment. I realized afterward that I need a white base and to add a little red to make the color more vibrant.
Also, this was my first time with a different color hotcoat & I like the way it turned out :)
I got a new & improved sander (which is suuuuuper dangerous and powerful) so am learning how to control that too.
Summer is here in beautiful Southern California and finally it's warm enough to wear a bikini at the beach. (The water isn't quite warm enough for me, so I still wear a springy).
Just recently, I received a super cute bikini in the mail from a new company out of L.A. called Beach Rays (www.beachrays.com). Instantly when I visited their page, I noticed the bikini's weren't the norm. They were stunning! The bikini's were practical, beautiful, and functional. Their newest collection is called WET by Beach Rays with the description like this,
"With our contemporary collection, WET, we showcase a
variety of modern and sophisticated looks. This line takes inspiration
from sophisticated European style and creates swimwear for the fashion
Whether you’re vacationing on the Greek Isles or poolside at the Bel Air Hotel, WET offers just the right suit for the occasion." Perfect for my style!
I personally have the Natalie and although it may look basic in color, the fit is flattering and the material feels ultra-luxurious and soft. It's a hint of sporty with a dash of sexy. Plus it's reversible. I've received several compliments from other beachies asking where'd I get that cute bikini?!
I can't wait to take it along to Bali in September. Stay tuned for more photos.
If you're looking for something unique and super cute, visit their website
I've been working really hard lately. But all that hard work has paid off & my newest creation is born. I've reached out of my comfort zone of surfing quads and have ventured into the Bonzer world. I asked my fin man Jack to make me some long Bonzer fins for this new 5'8" super fast board. Took it out for the first time at Swamis today. The waves were 4-6 feet and occasionally bigger. It was windy & stormy. There were only a handful of guys out. And me. Everyone was out there to catch waves. I took off on a cresting peak, made the drop and the fins locked in immediately in the turn. I flew down the line, flying up and down the wave. I couldn't be more overjoyed. The feeling was unmatchable. The paddle out was tough but I had so much adrenaline leftover from that wave that I paddled back with a huge grin on my face. I wish I had a video of it. I continued to get wave after wave. Perfect, reeling lefts and rights. This board WORKS amazing.