Today, we took an old classic, the orange fish, out with my newest creation, the singlefin monofish out to play. Rode a ton of waves, smashed lips, and did some big turns. Enjoyed every moment. It was the red monofish's first day out so I was stoked yet also nervous of how it was going to ride and paddle. To my surprise, the board works so well. It flies down the line and turns on a pivot due to it's big single fin. Love it. Can't wait to ride it some more. As for the tried and true orange fish, I was happy to have it back in the water and it still rides amazing.
The singlefin monofish is only 5'8"x 19 3/4" x 2 1/3 but it has an 8" fin. WILD
I've been surfing so much lately because we've had some good swell. It wasn't too big but around the 3-5 foot range and consistent. Yesterday was a memorable one. It was crowded due to the holiday but I managed to catch 15 waves, half rights and half lefts. Love doing big turns on my quad fish, plus it's super fast down the line. Today was much smaller but hope we get some swell soon.
(photo: borrowed from Surfline)
This conversation is starting to get old & it's making me mad. Let me begin. I don't understand what so many people's problem is with Brazilian-cut bikinis & surfing. I've heard both competitive and non-competitive female surfers bitch and moan about photos featuring a girl doing a backside bottom turn. Is there some taboo thing I don't know about that it's bad for girls to wear Brazilian-cut bikinis? I mean, it's time to grow up. If it's a jealousy thing, maybe you should go to the gym or just shut up. I've recently encountered conversations that included these remarks:
"I can't believe girls actually surf in gear like this... Aren't we trying to get noticed for our surfing abilities? not our tanned asses???? I'm going to wear a shorty wetsuit if i compete in Australia in march. I don't care what anybody thinks of that." "The current image (long hair, fit, athletic, slim-but-not-too-slim, flirtatious and heterosexual, always smiling, younger and younger, sexy, and skin-bearing), continues to feed into the status quo for female athletes that emphasizes ability as an accessory to beauty. It is unchallengeable to the dominant male sexual economy and it is fueling the current re-emergence of the sexual objectification of women in surf media.
Would blurring out the ass make you feel better? Or how about making the girls wear long mens shorts and a one-piece conservative swimsuit? Don't you travel the world and realize there are other cultures who dress differently than you? Would that make YOU feel better?
So often in life we forget the people who have made a difference in our lives. For me, there has been several people who have imprinted their knowledge and spirit in my life. My mentor, Ken Moore taught me the skills to create the crafts I love so much. I still can remember my very first board and I had no idea what I was doing. I didn't know where to look on the rails if there is a 'whoopdedoo' in the outline. Or how a planer, sureform, sander worked. "Don't hold the squeegee like a girl!" I was clueless when it came to how much catalyst to add in sixteen ounces of resin. Or how to route a fin box. I admire his perfection, down to the brush hairs left in the resin during a hot coat or how a board is polished. He could draw perfect pinlines and his hot coats always came out flawless. Sometimes he would sand my board for me while I was gone and surprise me. I told him, how am I ever going to learn how to sand if you don't let me do it!
But out of his generosity, I have learned a beautiful craft that many don't seem to care about any more. He was patient, well most of time, when I came up with new ideas for how I wanted my next board. Or when I changed my mind a million times when it came to what color I wanted my board. I mean, who would want to work with a girl who always held the tools wrong?
Thank you Ken for your kindness, patience, persistence, and generosity. Mahalo.
I have been surfing a lot lately, almost everyday. Thankfully I am feeling better and able to do the things I enjoy. Today I surfed a popular spot in SD county and when I first arrived, there were only about 15 people surfing. Within the next two hours, there were at least 50! And no one has shame when dropping in on others. So lame. I thought surfers had respect when it comes to sharing waves. Apparently not. I got one wave, rode it in and was over it. PS the photo isn't from the spot, but it makes for a good picture of how many people were out. :)
Today was a brutal surf day. There was size but it was so walled.
I was held under for ten waves in a row with six foot high whitewater swirling me around.
Finally after making it out, my lungs were full of water.
Made me feel like these were really big waves.
If I could get into big wave surfing, I would start training tomorrow.
Who: ...Lost Surfboards and " The Lucky Bastards",in conjunction with Catalyst present... What: A night of surfboard art, design and celebration ....with French persuasion. Over 30 boards on display ...all of which were constructed right on the premises. When: Friday , Feb 10th 5:00-9:00 pm
Where: Catalyst 1755 N. El Camino Real , San Clemente. 92672
Why: To showcase the unique and ubiquitous , graphic (and some times garish) glass and resin surfboard art of Frances own " Lucky Bastards"....to show a sneak peak of the new "V2 Rocket" and launch of the ...lost Spring 2012 clothing collection. Meet and Talk design with the Shapers and Glassers who built the boards. The factory will also be open for viewing of boards in progress. Also: We will be raffling a free custom surfboard. at the end of the evening. Bring donations for San Clemente homeless in exchange for raffle tickets. Food Drink Live Music and more.