december 21, 2009
Will forever be one of the best days of my life.
First, paddled out on my dinged long board at 8AM. When I first looked at it around 7:30 it was small looking but throughout the morning it began growing. There was no currant, overcast, no wind and perfection. Surfed alone on a left peak in the middle of RJ's with only a couple of guys around me. I was shredding, and it felt amazing. Got a little tired around 10:30AM so I started walking out and turns out my friends, the Froghouse guys: Beho, TK, DLC, Kalani, and all the boys were coming out. I looked back and realized the swell had grown so much... So I paddled back out with them for another half hour or so until I ate it so bad dropping in with the long board! Ha, but I was single-fin shredding!! Went home and relaxed for a while and was driving down Orange and all the boys were partying on a deck on Orange St. So I went up there for a couple beers and got a nice buzz going. We ended up paddling out around 4PM to 5PMish. Had so much fun today, best day of surfing in my life so far!
And it ended a little something like this... heaven's beautiful light shining into the world
Don't go near the water
15 hours ago