Tuesday, December 22, 2009

you should have been here, yesterday

december 21, 2009
Will forever be one of the best days of my life.
First, paddled out on my dinged long board at 8AM. When I first looked at it around 7:30 it was small looking but throughout the morning it began growing. There was no currant, overcast, no wind and perfection. Surfed alone on a left peak in the middle of RJ's with only a couple of guys around me. I was shredding, and it felt amazing. Got a little tired around 10:30AM so I started walking out and turns out my friends, the Froghouse guys: Beho, TK, DLC, Kalani, and all the boys were coming out. I looked back and realized the swell had grown so much... So I paddled back out with them for another half hour or so until I ate it so bad dropping in with the long board! Ha, but I was single-fin shredding!! Went home and relaxed for a while and was driving down Orange and all the boys were partying on a deck on Orange St. So I went up there for a couple beers and got a nice buzz going. We ended up paddling out around 4PM to 5PMish. Had so much fun today, best day of surfing in my life so far!

And it ended a little something like this... heaven's beautiful light shining into the world

Sunday, November 8, 2009

from now to the end of time.

Consumerism has overtaken us all. We truly cannot control it, nor have we been able to for the last hundreds of years. Monetary wealth is held by the richest of rich buying billion dollar houses and yachts that they will hardly use yet most everyone strives to buy that newer tv or car. Get over yourself! There are so many things we take for granted... and I am sick of it! At this moment in time, it would be hard for me to get up and run... but it would be possible.

Here's what you could do. Find a place. Or maybe roll out a map of the world, take a dart and throw it somewhere. Where does it land? Chances are it lands on a third world country. Tahiti, Bali, Peru, Costa Rica, somewhere in Africa? Look at all those possibilities and recall the waves you've seen in magazines only touched by a few locals, some tourists over the years and the occasional group of pros or hardcore surfers chasing swell. Perfect. Next. Sell your house. Quit your job. Pack up a suitcase of clothes you already have, give away your belongings-- there are plenty of people in the USA who need it more than you do. For what worth do they have if they sit idol in a garage? Nothing. You and your materialistic ways have looted a mountain of irrelevant junk over the years. Pack a couple surfboards up, some tools, grab your suitcase, and hold on to your dreams. Let's do this!

Arrive locale. Chances are they will treat you like royalty. Offer to teach English lessons in exchange for food. Find a little hut, hang up your hammock, and proceed to live your life without those worthless plastic items. Do this. With the money you recieved from selling your house and/ or business, why not set up shop in the locale of your choice. You're not in this for business, so don't get the idea that you need a CNC or anything besides blocks of foam imported from the nearest civilized area. Here you go: ask a trusted friend of family member to send you a couple blocks of foam every few months... Use the local trees to create stringers. Make your blanks. Shape the board. Glass. Finish. Then give them away for free to the local people. You're changing lives. They have nothing. You have everything. Skill. Money. Talent. Love. Generocity. They are just people who work for the daily wage of putting dinner on the table for their family. Teach the kids English. Therefore, maybe someday they will be able to go to school or college one day and possibly make a change to this terrible consumeristic world we live in because their roots are firmly planted in a society that doesn't revolve around the next pair of shoes.

Live your life this way. Surely, it will be a blessing because you are doing this to serve others. To make others happy. You'll have empty, perfect waves... for the rest of your life.


Thursday, October 8, 2009

Don't Talk Crap about Girls in the Lineup

Really, now? I'm out surfing at Newport river jetties and I was coming up this wave when a guy was paddling in to it. I was like 4 feet away from him. So when he comes back out to the line up, he starts talking shit about me to another dude. Seriously? I'm a girl. I don't take every wave cause I'm not a wave hog. So what if I'm not a perfect surfer. Another dude was to my right and had no problem sharing the wave with me. Gah Newport... what the hell is up with you?

Oh yeah, its Newport Beach. HA.

just stop. it turns people off from surfing.