This week has been an eventful and exciting one--we've had continuous swell (and still are),and I've enjoyed surfing quite a bit in varying sized waves and conditions. Saw all the neighbors. Someone said the waves need to end because we need to get back to "real life".. But I disagreed because this time is so much better than the rainy weeks we had.
Today, I surfed Orange with Carlos and not many other people. It was definitely winter waves and conditions. Light offshores. Little 2-3 foot waves. And a hang over cure since I apparently got drunk last night?
About 6 weeks ago, I quit eating fast-food. My body feels so much better!! Can't wait to see and feel the results in six months. Eating healthy is my goal.
If you get a chance, check out: www.newportsurfshots.com/hotshot
Real kool guy from Newps with great photog.
You know I've been surfing when my room is a disaster for days on end... clothes all over the floor, bed not made, and my board bag with board still in the middle of the room.
Now as for today... There was no mistake that it was EPIC.
Carlos, two of his friends, and I went to an undisclosed spot with 5,000 of our closest friends within earshot. Caught some incredible waves but mostly suffered the consecutive six foot plus slightly walled beach break.
...will always and forever be at Blackies. please remind me again Willy why do we go surf there? 9/10 times it is horrid people-wise. well and wave wise. but if you do want some coffee i hear theres a shrewd of gents who "surf" but just drink coffee ha haaaaaaaa
Flat Flat Flat right now. Forecasts are showing a NPAC swell brewing on the horizon... it's still up in the air right now. They are saying it will hit Hawaii so I hope we get some pumping North/NW's here in California. It's so nice having empty lineups--I talked to a couple friends today and they said they haven't surfed in quite a while because it is "cold". F*$& that I'm still in my 3/2 no booties. Ask anyone. Still surfing for 2-3 hours at a time. Water 56 degrees, air between 40 and 60.
What else is going on in the world?
I've been doing a lot of thinking about the future lately-- I guess that is what we strive for when we are in school right? Had an interesting lecture today on mission work and it kind of lit a fire under my ass. I indicated that I was interested in seeing what opportunities were available--preferably where there is surf. Hopefully I'll have my SUP done by then.
Surfed Grandview in Encinitas today with Tom again today. We expected the waves to be bigger today and I believe they were, but when we paddled out at 11 it was already windy. (Booo San Diego county for being windy-- I thought I wouldn't have to deal with that like OC! hehe)
Caught a couple of waves but nothing as productive as yesterday. It was a gnarley paddle-out back to the line-up and the wind wasn't helping at all! On one of my waves, I dropped down, hit a bump, and it felt like I went flying! I believe Tom witnessed this. I came up laughing & slightly embarrassed. Didn't last too long because my body was dead from surf marathons as of late.
My 5'8" fish works great in all sizes of surf *1-6 feet so far...
Wow, this is a beautiful photo. I surfed Beacons with my good friend Tom Laveuf who lives in Encinitas. We paddled out around 12 and lasted a few hours before our hands and feet were frozen. I caught about ten waves soon after going out. I remember one particularly because it was a crisp left, over my head, and pretty fast. I didn't get barreled but it was a fast down-the-line. It felt incredible to stall for a second to feel the power and grace of a bigger wave than I am used to.
Not sure if I already mentioned this, but during Christmas break, I have improved substantially. No longer am I scared of steep drops and my wave count is well over 20 in the last few sessions. Yesterday I surfed 71 with all my neighbors and caught at least 30 waves. I lost count after a while. This has been one of my huge goals. It has taken me a good 6-8 months to truly enjoy the orange board (5'8" fish). At the beginning, I didn't enjoy it for whatever reason, I don't know. But a year later, I am a stronger paddler with more confidence. Feels good.