Keep your mind off the fact we don't have waves and that gas prices are going up.. Be happy. Stir up the ocean. Make some storms Dance party!! Make your ears THANK YOU. . . . Escucha!! Above Photo credit @ www.hbsurfshot.blogspot.com Check em out!
My dad is on vacation here & we were able to spend some time at the harbor and pier today. It was way too cold for me but I think he enjoyed the climate change from the frozen land up north. I showed him my favorite surfboard as he had never seen my work before & he loved it. I explained the process of building a board to him. As a craftsman, he appreciated the hard work. We had a nice day. PS: the train is one of my favorite things. choooo chooooo.
We went out to tha bay around 10 PM last night after a few drinks. Raged through the harbor, flying past Seaworld at 35 mph! The dolphins were awake after that. Insert, "Happy New year muthafucka" here. We had the entire bay to ourselves. Silky water. Caught a fishy! yew. Stoked.
Good Morning surfy world. No surf. It's raining. Don't want to get out of bed. Hot Yoga is definitely on tap for today.
"When we were in our youth, we had dreams that we could fly. We had friends that were invisible, and love that never died. And then as we grew old and saw the pain, we only saw the truth; that love would heal, if we stayed true, to the dreams of our youth."
Yesterday was a miraculous experience. I was on fire--on top of the world. That's the way a fish should be surfed. But today, something happened I hope never to repeat. Tom and I paddled out at sunrise. There were about 15 people in the water but everyone was spread out. It was mostly older dudes on longboards... and then us hipsters. Hehe. The sets were over my head and the offshore wind blew moderately. My first wave went fine but the second scared me to death. I took off on a set wave, dropped down shakily because my toes were tucked under so when I went to turn off the bottom, I had no power. I crashed hard, my eyes felt like they were going to fall out. Then the wave picked me up and dumped me over. Thrashed. I paddled back out, sat on my board, miserable. Something wasn't right. Shortly after, a bigger set came through and I was too far inside. I was tossed in the whitewater, four waves later my body wasn't functioning. I was delusional and sick-feeling. I called for Tom to come in, then preceded to wait on the beach, almost passing out.
Today was Friday & I got tha wave of my life today. Up until this point nothing has felt better. I felt high from it.
Surfed Beacons from 3 to darkness. It was crowded. Got a set wave. Dropped in so smoothly, turned gracefully off the bottom while disappearing in the wave. Cruised down the line, wavering up and down the face. It was so long. Felt like I was flying. I was high.