Just open your eyes
And see that life is beautiful.
I felt completely alive today and it's one of the most liberating feelings in the world. My mentor, Ken, and I went surfing at Bolsa Chica/Seapoint today. It was insane. While the high tide was going out, we strategically paddled out past the 10 foot crushing shorepound. We made our way to the outside. Sets were rolling in at about 6-8 feet and pretty consistent. The backwash was so intense that paddling into waves was so hard. There were several people in the water, and hardly anyone was catching waves. Ken caught the 1 wave of the day and I had zero. Kinda sucked but the ride down for him felt like ski jumps and landing pretty close to that shorepound. But the challenge of paddling into those huge walls was incredible--just looking down the wall of water ...Then this set came through that was huge... I'm talking 10-12feet huge. On the way in, I was paddling towards the shore and again, facing the shorepound. I was thrown so hard against the sand and took 3 waves to the head trying to avoid my 9' longboard. I finally made it out gasping for air with the most supreme feeling. This is what it feels like to be alive.
Most important: God, Friends and Family, Surf, Love, and Life.
One of the best compliments I received. "She's a charger."
1 day ago