This Saturday, June 30, in Newport Beach, we are having a celebration for Carlos Montejo. It would be his birthday. Come find us at Tower 68, off Orange Street. Surf, BBQ, brews, and just enjoy a day with the company of his friends.
And starting to get to me. I can't help but want to have some sizable surf but every where I look, it's barely breaking. I'm not a long boarder so riding my short boards really suck but I guess it's time to get work done. Ha! I've been thinking about making some different boards for these really small days.
With all of the chaos on land, I find comfort and happiness in the sea. That's what SEAHAB is all about. I need the feeling of duck diving because it forces me to feel alive and present in the moment. If I don't, reality doesn't set in and I continue living without feeling. Surfing makes me feel.
I've been surfing a lot lately, and not as much as I actually want to. If the waves and wind were better, I'd probably stay out longer. I love doing turns and floaters, so fun. I'm ready to continue forward in life by living in the present and looking towards the future.
I don't have very many photos of my dad but the few I have from my childhood are treasured. I know that I have many characteristics of him including being stubborn, picky, high standards, crafty, and intelligent. There are so many memories I can recall of times spent with him. He has a particular fondness for classic cars and so do I. He would take me to shows with him and explain each of the cars including details on construction and time period. I loved it. I'm glad we could share in these experiences.
He is the hardest working man I know. I can remember as a child he would build barbed wire fences with a sledgehammer and his bare hands. Now he didn't have a lot of patience but he was efficient and everyone needed to do the job how he wanted them too. He had a workshop in the basement of our house with woodworking tools of all sorts. I remember when I was about 3 or 4, he let me use the hammer and bang nails into a piece of wood. I think I had like 50 nails in this little board. It wasn't about the nails, it was the time spent together that meant the most. I gained all of my early craftsmanship experience from him.
Unfortunately we live so far away from each other but I know that he is supportive of my life and dreams even if he doesn't express it. I will always remember the positive memories and forgive the bad. I appreciate all of the special things he taught me. Thank you, Darvin.
Three of my boards were shown at the Anything But Three event in Oceanside this morning. Had a fun time meeting craftsmen and surfers from around California and other places. Saw some beautiful boards, funky boards, standard boards, and anything but a thruster! Gained some new inspiration and I'm ready to make some new boards. PS: looking for a shaping bay in Oceanside/Carlsbad/Encinitas so please let me know if you know of one. And the waves were really good today too: peaky, head high and glassy til about 10.
I've been surfing a ton lately, thanks to that great south/ south west swell. It feels good to finally have some sizable waves with some power! The wind has been blowing early which sucks but the waves in the early morning have been dreamy! This board is working so good, I love these fins.
I've been surfing a lot of rights lately, and as a goofy-footer, I aim for lefts most of the time. Even at Swami's, I mostly go left. (Now don't tell everyone that there is a left there). I am getting better and better at surfing back side, and figuring out how to do big carves and turns, floaters and hacks. But, when I had the opportunity this afternoon to take a big really good left, I smoked it today. It was head high. I took off, did a big bottom turn up to the pocket and rode down the line til I could hack off the top and connect to the inside. I finished it off with a nice top turn and floater into the white water. I felt so good.
Sad to hear that Moonkitty, the beautiful and beloved cat from Moonlight Glassing passed away last night. He was a very special cat and loved by all! He was the chief surfboard inspector & always picked out the lucky boards.
In other news, the Amtrak was stopped outside Cafe Ipe for over an hour due to a big semi truck bottoming out on Leucadia Drive. It was quite a sight.