Friday, November 26, 2010

The Feast!

Most amazing feast ever. We made it all!
Then went in to sleeping coma. lovely

So thankful for:
Good friends and family, my life, surfing, waves, shaping, smiling, and love.

Thursday, November 25, 2010

Beachy Thanksgiving

After we put the turkey in the oven, we headed to the beach for a morning walk & people watching time.
Swami's is so beautiful. Not really any swell in the water but good to enjoy a beautiful Thanksgiving morning.
<3 MM

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Be Still.

I spent some time meditating and thinking this morning.
Expressing what I am thankful for.
I like the back bay.

Tuesday, November 23, 2010


And I bet you do too.
Waters polluted, contaminated, murky.. Floating diseases all around.
Plus its windy, nasty, whitecaps,freezing cold, no swell...
Ok. I'll stop ranting. Days like today make me want to leeeeeeave this place.
Somewhere warm like: Nica, Bali, well you get it.
I'm in need of a swell. It doesn't matter what direction it is, NW, S, SW...
Make it clean, consistent, warm water, and fun. I'm pretty sure you will agree with me.

Just went on a long walk around my neighborhood and by the time I arrived back at home, my cheeks were red and freezing.
BRRR. What is this, winter?
Tomorrow I'll get in the water. I have to.

PS: the photos of a jig I made at Affffff's house. I'm ready to fish now!

Sunday, November 21, 2010

La Jolla + Birthday Fun

Weather forecaster in the making.

Sunday, November 21, 2010
Happy Birthday A!!
Had a swell rainy day.
So thankful you're in my life!

Nice run-off waterfall.

I love peli's

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

here fishy fishy

When there's no waves in sight, get yer fishy on!! yeeeee boy!
team fdbu put together a killah video of their adventures to SCI when its flaaaaaaaaaat !!!
SCI is 60 miles off the coast of Newport Harbor. only the strong survive, say the boys.
so good. enjoy.

Monday, November 15, 2010


My heart sank when I watched this video. I started crying in the computer lab at school.
Words cannot describe the feeling of a paddleout.
Loyalty, ohana, love, passion, fellowship, oppression, aloha...
It proves we are a family, a community. We care for one another.
Hands splashing water into the air, throwing flowers, screaming. So vibrant.
Its a celebration of life. Life from before and life to come.
I cannot imagine the feeling of losing someone so close as Andy's wife did.
Nor do I ever want to. It's life and we must accept it.
When I do die, I want to be cremated and spread in the ocean probably at RJs or Nomans.
I pray that the surf community finds closure after this time of disrupt.
Show your friends and family that you appreciate them.
The time is now.

Sunday, November 14, 2010

The Benefit!

The Benefit for my good friend Mark Bouvier went very well. Stoked I was able to help.
Had some awesome raffle prizes-- shirts, fins, blanks, skateboards, and beautiful custom surfboards.
We raised over $2600 today. Thank you to everyone who contributed.

Saturday, November 13, 2010


Ohhhh I love Saturdays. I don't like weekend warriors, but I do like Saturdays.
Today was a perfect winter-like morning. The sky had a purpleish blue hue, light traces of offshores, and glassy water.
I do love Summer here because I don't have to wear a wettie and can surf for hours BUT I think I truly love winter surfing. Less crowded line-ups, chilly water, clean conditions, and you know the only people who are out are there to surf, not some summerkooks on softies.

Surfed Nomans Land this morning. Rode my 5'4" fishy. Good vibes spread through the line-up probably because it was mainly locals and a few dads with kids. My friend scored a barrel on my fish. Needless to say I was stoked cause I saw it. He commented that it is a very fast board, a little squirley, but overall a rad board. Thanks man.

One wave stood out in my mind this morning. Caught one of the set waves, went left, dropped down smoothly, and stylishly sailed down the line until the white wash crumbled in front of me. I love that free feeling when dropping down a wave. Nothing compares to that. Especially when the conditions are perfect and glassy.

I needed this SEAHAB. My soul is awakened and strengthened. Did you get some SEAHAB today? If not, grab your suit & board, let's go!

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Super Windy

Today calls for a day of skool & studying.
I have a new project planned on the horizon.
Not going to tell any details because it's gonna be THAT KOOL.

Do something sea-related today.

I would like to know who my readers are ... please send me an e-mail @

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Foam Time!

Started shaping a new shred sled yesterday afternoon.
Stoked that I can work out of there!!
Its a 5'8" fishy similar to my current fish.
Had a little problems with the outline because I drew on the outline with a fishing pole curve, not a template. I seemed to fix it completely and the outline looks good. I knew the numbers I wanted to hit... its just aesthetics to get it to be a smooth curve.
Planed top and bottom with the Hitachi modified planer. Had some fun with this since I had to take off almost an inch.
Used a new technique, a revolving sander at about 3500 RPMs to do faster sanding. Brian showed me this and I like the way it works... as long as I don't jab one of the edges into the flat foam HA.
I actually enjoy using the hand tools -- the sureforms and sanding block. This is probably because I learned how to do everything by hand. It's probably good knowledge to have ... but it would be rough if I had to bust out a few boards a day.
Still need to shape the rails and throw in a bit of a concave.
Then we'll be ready to glass. Any ideas on color?
More to come.

Sunday, November 7, 2010


Surfed Thursday, tide was weird, saw a couple dry barrels. Nothing too special. I think its funny that there were places that had waves so huge they didn't know what to do with them & then here at home we have tiny waves with no power. HAH. So interesting.

Went over to my friend Brian's shop EMNT. (Check em out: ) He's got a great operation of Skateboards, Surfboards and Clothing. Goes against the grain of mainstream surf industry. I hope to be working at his factory soon-- probably lamming. Also, I will be making more boards in the near future. Things are happening!

Had a lovely weekend though. Some great SEAHAB Explored some tide pools in Laguna by Rockpile. Biked on crazy PCH. Had such great food: sushi, acai bowls, pizza... ! Did lots of things Sea-related. Felt GREAT. I am revitalized. So thankful for everything around me.

Wednesday, November 3, 2010



A photos worth a thousand words
Sympathies go out to the Irons ohana. Bless you all