For the past two weeks, I've been plagued with this nasty sickness. Not sure exactly where it came from, but I think it came from the airport... I haven't surfed much and its really bothering me. That water time is so essential to the daily survival of life.... when I don't have it... seems like somethings missing.
I read this somewhere: "You were created in water therefore you must return to the water."
Sorry for rambling tonight. I need some good waves. <3
Do you ever have a day where it seems your surfing is incredible? The conditions, temperature, tides, whatever it might be are not optimal but you still paddle out...
Well that's what happened today. "August 15, 2010. SW swell. 1 - 3 foot. Air temp 58 degrees. Water temp 58 degrees. South wind at 4 mph."
Today I had my best day surfing so far. That's a pretty risky thing to say because I can think back to days where I had a great time with a lot of good waves. But this one has set the bar higher. I paddled out with my friend Carlos only to find that the tide push helped out the size and still at 11 in the morning it was near glassy. Surfing with him has given me a higher level of energy. It was really motivating. I wanted to 'keep up' with the boys. And I was proving it.
My wave riding ability has improved immensely and its rad to have a day like this with good vibes. I wish that every day could be like this.
This is my 100th post. Wow what a beautiful journey its been & I'm thankful of what I've endured in order to get this far. Can't believe I started shaping almost 2 years ago. I've made ten boards and am looking forward to the next million.
Was watching a couple of videos of these shaper legends and listening to what they have to say about keeping the art and craftsmanship alive is such a vital thing. Many shapers have developed designs to this point and they pass on knowledge to the next generation. I hate the thought of shaping machines taking over. But we love production, don't we? Just wait til they make a glassing machine. UGH.
So many surfers don't know where their board came from, who put time into it, or where its been before it reaches their hands. Maybe they don't care? And maybe that's okay. But so many people I know or have read about consider surfing a very sacred activity... and their boards alike. To me-- its an incredible lost art that I hope to continue learning over my entire life.
So today, go thank your shaper for what he/she has done for you.
Ha I was the only girl at Uppers today which makes me the best girl surfer out there. Awesome huh. Went with my Tugboat buddies -- Dan & Adam. Had a great time. There were some long lulls between sets so had a great time laughing.
I am hearing that my little fish (which is currently unnamed) is being glossed. But I have to polish it and beautify it. Ken is the man. He must love sanding because he sanded it all for me! Rad.