2010 is officially over in a couple of minutes. I think it is quite amazing how my last day of the year came together as well as it did. This morning, I surfed Blackies--peaky A-frames, a slight wind, and a tolerable crowd. I must say, I had the best surf performance-wise this morning and caught like 25 waves before my feet were frozen solid. Most of my waves were lefts but I had a few rights to mix it up. Saw a ton of people there including a customer, Eric. It was a nice ohana way to end the year with surprisingly good waves.
Winter. Is. Incredible. Although I haven't been enjoying the rain or the blistering cold mornings, I am embracing wintertime.
During the summer, I constantly think how much I love summer because of the heat and bikinis. But then again, there are a million people at the beach, the lineups are crowded, and its usually blown out by 10 AM.
The winter months differ from the summer ones. The biggest factor is that the air and water get colder. It blows my mind that soon after labor day, the beaches are vast and empty. There are mornings I hardly see ten people. Course, I do not go to Blackies and that seems to be the 'hangout' place so I am partly biased.
Today I surfed Nomansland even with the horrible stench and the run-off dead branches, trash, and whatever collectibles I could discover while trying to maneuver myself to the water. The water wasn't brown this morning except at the river-mouths. So hopefully I am safe by wearing my ear plugs which I hate! Despite the quality of the beach and water, the waves were juicy, clean, and beautiful. Had a blissful time.
So as of now, I am praying for cleaner water. Rest assured it will come. I sure do love wintertime.
Ohhhh the luxury of weekday morning surf. MMM. It's one of the best things in the world. Had RJ's with about 6-8 other people. Summers yield 100 somedays. Especially during swells. I love winter, and I don't mind wearing a full-suit, if I can have uncrowded waves.
This afternoon, my friend Jen and I, went on a hike in the laguna hills. Such a beautiful place and you could see for miles despite the smog. A very enjoyable girl time!! And victory cerveza to top off the afternoon!
Ohhhhhh yeahhhhh today was good. It wasn't 10ft Pipe, but for Newport Beach, 2-3 foot was good. I'll tell you why. EMPTY, FOGGY, GLASSY, PERFECTION I love the fog because no one surfs when its foggy and everyone seems to be scared that they can't see the waves. Zooport doesn't get its name from anywhere... it's known for crowds of kooks. But today, NOPE, it was EMPTY & it was a SATURDAY. Did I mention that it was GLASSY too? MM I love that. This all leads to PERFECTION... All my worries were far gone and nothing else mattered except ....
I have a lot on my mind tonight Feeling a little bit nostalgic tonight although I really don't know how to think. It mostly began when I transferred my photos from the last five years over to my new computer. Made my heart hurt a little. Its funny how life changes sooooo much. Or is it just me? Have you changed or stayed the same over the last five years? I'd like to know. People come and go. I don't even recognize the person I was in those photos, was that really me?! But I must have faith in the future, whatever happens...
It's December 1. I guess that means winter? Surfed Orange St tonight. Air was 61 & water was 56. BRRRR. Frozen feet. Still flat. C'mon swells. Catalina looked beautiful, well thanks to the Santa Anas that have been blowing. It was illuminated. NEED: Surf Trip