Tuesday, December 22, 2009

you should have been here, yesterday

december 21, 2009
Will forever be one of the best days of my life.
First, paddled out on my dinged long board at 8AM. When I first looked at it around 7:30 it was small looking but throughout the morning it began growing. There was no currant, overcast, no wind and perfection. Surfed alone on a left peak in the middle of RJ's with only a couple of guys around me. I was shredding, and it felt amazing. Got a little tired around 10:30AM so I started walking out and turns out my friends, the Froghouse guys: Beho, TK, DLC, Kalani, and all the boys were coming out. I looked back and realized the swell had grown so much... So I paddled back out with them for another half hour or so until I ate it so bad dropping in with the long board! Ha, but I was single-fin shredding!! Went home and relaxed for a while and was driving down Orange and all the boys were partying on a deck on Orange St. So I went up there for a couple beers and got a nice buzz going. We ended up paddling out around 4PM to 5PMish. Had so much fun today, best day of surfing in my life so far!

And it ended a little something like this... heaven's beautiful light shining into the world