Sunday, October 31, 2010
I have a huge problem... I'm missing one of my best surf buddies.
His name is Dan Montgomery. He works/worked on one of the tugboats in Newport's harbor. He worked 5PM to 5AM almost every night of the week. He is the hardest worker I know. A couple times a week we would dawn patrol either at RJ's, Orange, Upper and Middle Trestles. I know he liked HB pier but I wouldn't go there haha.
We were surf buddies, we met one day at the Froghouse... and I don't think we ever hung out outside of surfing. I know he had plans to go to Nicaragua when he had a break from work. I am not sure if he left suddenly or what, but the last time I talked to him was when he was in Eureka on a tug mission.
Dan is an incredible person & I feel so blessed to know him. He is a true waterman--a career as tugboat captain, amazing surfer, and diver. When I didn't have shoes one day at Trestles, Dan offered his shoes even though they didn't fit. He would test out my boards and give me feedback on what he liked and what needed improvement and he especially liked my standard 6'0" short board with the stripes.
It was amazing to see his face light up when he got a good wave.
He worked hard so he could play harder. I admire that about him.
We have no photos together but I pray from now on that he is safe.
Photos are of Nica from random unknown sources. Thanks.
PLEASE COME OUT AND SUPPORT!
BBQ and Surfboard Raffle to benefit Local Surfer Mark Bouvier
On Sunday, November 14th from 2pm to 5pm, Aloha Glassing, Foam E-Z, Futures Fins, Lineup Surfboards, Shelter Surf Shop and Surfboards by Tim Stamps will be hosting a Hot Dog BBQ and Surfboard Raffle to raise proceeds for the Physical Rehabilitation of Accident Victim, Surfer, Friend and Father Mark Bouvier.
For More Info on Mark's Situation, please visit:
There will be two surfboards up for raffle as well as surf accessories and clothing from Futures Fins and Shelter Surf Shop. Advance raffle tickets will be available for purchase at Aloha Glassing, Foam E-Z and Shelter Surf Shop and at The Event. $20 for 5 Tickets pre-sale/on site or $5 for a meal and 1 ticket day of the event.
The public event will take place behind Aloha Glassing and Foam E-Z and will feature Live Music, Hot Dog BBQ and Raffle for great prizes and a great cause. There is plenty of street parking. Foam E-Z and Aloha Glassing will be open for business during the event.
This is a family friendly event. All are welcome. Hope to see you there!
Proudly presented by:
Aloha Glassing, Foam E-Z, Futures Fins, Line Up Surfboards, Shelter Surf Shop and Surfboards By Tim Stamps
Saturday, October 30, 2010
This week in surfing has been ridiculous. So good that I know some people who've logged almost a full-time job's worth of time in the water. Some surfing three to four times a day. Never having a dry wetsuit. And some sleeping in their car so they'd be the first out. Bliss. It's a good thing this doesn't continuously happen because we would all be dead.
Some friends from up north came down for a day (and picked the best day) because they took a wrong turn and ended up at a secret spot here, saw guys getting dry stand-up barrels and were stoked out of their mind. This doesn't happen all the time.
Thursday it was glassy all day... perfect conditions.
Friday again, so incredible. Deep barrels some places... And did I mention warm water?
Monday, October 25, 2010
So much has happened in the last week I feel that a year went by.
I flew out to North Dakota to be with my family.
No surf there. And definitely some chilly weather & I was ready to get back home to the sea.
I need SEAHAB more than ever right now (except the fact that it's raining)
A few updates:
I have a new interview published:
Also, a good friend of mine now has a housing for his camera. SO STOKED for him.
Can't wait to have a sesh and get some photos! SOON!
His name is Tom Leveuf. Check out his work:
The photos on this post are both from him.
Well done! Looking forward to see what else he comes up with.
As for me, I'll be playing catch-up with all this homework.
Keep in touch people.
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
My Great Uncle Elroy passed away yesterday. His wife, Maxine, passed away a couple months ago.
While growing up, it was like having an extra set of Grandparents because they truly loved the kids. We would never leave their house empty handed. Candy, coins, art, books, everything! My Uncle Elroy collected coins and had way more coins than the bank does. He loved making things. He loved coffee. Cheap coffee, that is.
He would always encourage the kids to be the best in school as he was a math teacher. I remember visiting their house when I was young & they had a room filled with things from the ocean. I would sit in there and look at all the seashells, coral, and photos...dreaming of the ocean. Now I live here. Dreams do come true.
Live in the now.
God be with my family right now, we need it so much.
Above is my Grandma Olga & Great Aunt Maxine
Below is some good memories of digging potatoes!
They all taught us kids that hard work & good character pays off!
Thank you for that.
Monday, October 18, 2010
Photos courtesy of Jonathan Hoover. Thank you.
I realized I have a twin? Have yet to meet her though.
The first photo could easily be me.
I love San Diego county... the waves are so smooth there.
On the other hand....
I don't know how so many things can happen in such a short period of time.
Can't focus over here. My Great Uncle Elroy died ... got a traffic citation... my feet have 6 million tiny cuts from Trestles... what else could happen?
Please enjoy this song.
Let your mind be free.
Love the people around you & cherish the moments spent.
Sunday, October 17, 2010
Was on my way home from San Diego .. it was sprinkling rain & SD county didn't look all that great. Met up with my friend Tom & we went to Uppers. Probably the best day I've ever had there. Felt good to ride good waves. Need to go there more often. We had a great time & didn't want to leave after 4 hours. BUT, my leash broke and my board went flying to shore. Luckily someone caught it before it went crashing into the rocks. On my way in, I proceeded to get 10 million cuts on my feet from the reef. Blood all over. I wanted to paddle back out so bad but my feet were aching. Didn't have shoes on the way home so inevitably had to walk back barefoot with the cuts.
Totally worth the sesh.
Friday, October 15, 2010
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
Sunday, October 10, 2010
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Saturday, October 2, 2010
Water is such an incredible 'thing'.
Seahab, by definition, is rehabilitation by the sea. I go in the water because it makes me feel good. So do others. Each person has their sole purpose for entering the ocean. Someday, I hope to help individuals rehabilitate their body, soul, and mind with marine-based activities.
A couple months ago, I was talking to a good friend about Seahab. Just this year he had a spinal accident and has been recovering ever since. As an avid surfer and long-distance paddler, he wanted to recover back to his previous condition (and excel that). But there are so many obstacles standing in his way, especially muscular atrophy.
He said, "I've been content being back in the water...but that's really not enough. Water is a form of psychomatic healing. every bit as real as a psychosomatic illness. Both are very real." (By definition, psychosomatic is, "of or pertaining to a physical disorder that is caused by or notably influenced by emotional factors and
pertaining to or involving both the mind and the body."
I responded by saying, "So my Seahab thing, remember? Well, what you said is exactly how I feel. Once you are in the water (as a surfer), you crave to do what you used to do. (With an illness/disability/condition) You start by driving to the beach every day. You watch the surfers and remember what you used to do. It might be difficult at first, but it is the beginning of psychosomatic healing. At the same time, continue conversing with friends who share the same passions as you. This brings a sense of community. It forces you to face your fears along with knowing that rehabilitation can happen. The next step is walking through the sand. Instantly, recollections of habit flood your conscious. Next, put your feet in the water. Let the waves roll over your toes. It's a step-by-step healing process. Physically, you can't paddle out, but mentally, you can. You know what you want and that is to be doing what you love. Next, you lay on your board, just as you used to do. All these little motions trigger past memories yet signal the future. In your head, you know what to do with your arms, so when you get these feelings, I believe the mental and physical parts can aid each other in the end.
No matter if you have a psychosomatic condition or not, these steps can help reduce anxiety and stress. Overall, life will be more positive.
My desire is to help people who need rehabilitation no matter what age they are or what condition they have. I'm doing this for the love because I love surfing, paddling, everything aquatic. And I know that other people's lives thrive off of it just like mine does.
Believe in yourself.
We already knew that didn't we? HA.
Summer is filled with crowds, crappy wind, crappy waves, but an occasional swell.
Fall brings beautiful sunsets, evening glass-offs, warm Indian summer water, ... mmm.
I already know which I like better.
It is such a treat to have warm water and surf in just a shirt and shorts.
Yesterday (and Thursday night), I surfed some of the funnest waves as of late.
So good to see everyone out: Willy, Carlos, Beho, AC, Deli, the pros and the neighbors.