Have gotten pretty lucky to pick up some late afternoons and evenings finding Grant St to be nice and glassy. Super rad. Even though there's not huge swell, its good to be out in the water catching waves. Plus the crowd is pretty small and mellow. Feels good.
Rushed home from work, ran out to the beach at 7. Scored some amazing waves. Mmmm. I love watching the sun set over near glassy water. All of the colors intertwined--reds and yellows from the sun mixing with the deep blue water. Such a beautiful thing.
<3 Hopefully my friend can get me a photo from tonight.
Summer is def here (except not in temperatures!!!)
That sunset was INCREDIBLE last night. Right as I was driving home, dark clouds were layered thickly to a point where the sun had taken over the beach cities. Words cannot describe the beauty! Luckily one guy caught some amazing shots. Reminds me of when I was in Brazil.
Can't get it to post as a video... but here's the link:
First surfed Newps this morning and it was great. Then Willy and I went down to Uppers and it was mackin' mmmmmmmm. good waves. Welcome back summertime & SS
I forgot to mention: a pack of dolphins were swimming through the waves right by me. It was such an incredible feeling and sight. One even jumped out of the wave behind me and then swam under me! So rad.
One thing I know for sure, I haven't spent enough time in the water in the last 2 weeks.
This morning I had some lovely 3-5 ft SS peaks .. mmmmm it was GOOD.
That antsy feeling of slipping into your wettie. That anticipation feeling as you walk across the beach and can't walk fast enough! That supreme feeling of weightlessness as you barely make it over a set wave. That breathtaking feeling as you take off on your first wave of the day. That overwhelming feeling when you paddle back out when everything is perfect.
So what I've been thinking is that being in the water is one of the most important aspects in life. We dream, travel, and think about it... but actually paddling out is what makes the difference.
SEAHAB is all about connecting heart, mind, body, soul, and spirit together. Without one, imbalance occurs.
Happy Saturday everyone. Get your Seahab in. Make it a desire.
There's something to be said about surfing--it can take you to another place.
Be thankful of the people around you.
Here's what I think.
You have one life to life... so live it to the fullest, sparing nothing and learning everything. Make passions a priority and let nothing stand in your way. Be successful and brilliant. Live smart and efficiently. Love God and love people. Share waves and believe in your biggest dreams.