Saturday, October 29, 2011

Miss you

 Life is rough without you Carlos
Miss these beautiful winter days with peaks lining up at RJs, no one out, cold water and that heater vest you'd always wear.  I was jealous, cause you could stay out so much longer than me. 

Monday, October 24, 2011

Long Live the King

Check out this video interview of Kelly Slater. really really good.
Love the circular wave pool.

Saturday, October 22, 2011

Friday, October 21, 2011

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Dance the way I feel

There's no other way to describe it.  I can surf and paddle, but on land I am in pain. 
My lower back is extremely sore and painful.  It gets stuck when I am trying to stand up out of a chair or the bed.  It really sucks.  It's hard to understand pain unless you're the one in pain. 
Went to the chiropractor for the first time today.   I know it's a common thing, but I was nervous.
Tomorrow I'll find out the results.  I need treatment. 
Doing everyday things has become difficult.  Hope it's not extreme. 
I need to surf everyday. 
(and we need waves...)

Friday, October 14, 2011


Good morning and TGIF. 
I love summer but I love autumn even more.  Warm water is amazing, but really our water wasn't that warm all summer. (Unless something epic happened in July/ early Aug I didn't know about).
Cool mornings.
Glassy water.
A slight breeze.
Empty lineups.
Indian Summer.

Monday, October 10, 2011

California Surf Festival this Friday

This Friday- at the Oceanside California Surf Museum I am showcasing two of my boards and one handplane.  They are hosting a movie night event featuring women! 

Doherty Fund

Please help support two beautiful surfer girls who lost their father.

Reposting from  :

Some of you may have heard we have lost a member of the Surfing America family. Mike Doherty, father to Kulia and Lani, passed away in his sleep Thursday morning. He loved watching his girls compete and Kulia bravely honored his memory by competing in and winning the Surfing America Prime event at Church Beach, San Onofre, Saturday morning. These girls need our support, both emotionally and financially.

'the shoreline' Church of San Clemente will be accepting donations on behalf of Kulia and Lani Doherty. Checks can be made payable to 'the shoreline' Church (1062 Calle Negocio #A, San Clemente, Ca 92673) with a memo note "Doherty Fund." Donations can also be made online through Click the Give Online tab, donate, and complete the credit card information. Use the description block on the review page to indicate "Doherty Fund." All online donations are processed through a secure PayPal processing site.

Sunday, October 9, 2011


Caught in the act.  Checking out my favorite big wave surfer Greg Long & big wave shaper Chris Christensen. 

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Sacred Craft this weekend

 SACRED CRAFT is this weekend!
Super stoked.  Can't wait to put my hands all over a ton of surfboards.

Sunday, October 2, 2011

October Time

 The waves are small today and the water is cold.  Hopefully the red tide goes away completely so we can have some clean water.  Just wanted to post some photos of inspiration.  I love autumn -- its my favorite season.