Sunday was my first time surfing Point Loma. What an adventure, where do I begin?
We launched the boat around 4 PM and headed out to find some hidden surf spots not accessible by land. As we came around the corner, waves began breaking everywhere!! Super stoked. Time to surf. The only bad thing was that it was high tide. :(
Af dropped me off as close to the waves as possible then drove the boat out a way to avoid the 4-6 foot rolling waves. Two guys were already surfing but left shortly after I arrived.
It was spooky.
The water was dark and the kelp was thick.
It felt like a different world.
After riding a mid-sized one, I was caught on the inside during a sizable set and kept hoping I wouldn't be flung onto the rocks. Dive, dive, dive. Finally I was back outside.
After a couple more waves, I was over the kelp leaching onto my leash. I had a whistle so that Afran would know I wanted to be picked up. Back to the boat.
We drove out to the main kelp so I could change and he could fish. When we were ready to move to another location to fish, the boat wouldn't start. Dead in the water. Luckily we weren't still in the surf zone otherwise worse things could have happened. Slight panic. We called Vessel Assist to tow us back to the landing. A wire connecting the engine and the battery was corroded. You would have never known unless you were really looking to find the frail wire. Thankfully by the grace of God and the help of Reggie, the Vessel Assist captain, we arrived back at the landing.
What at triiiiip. We went to the DelMar Fair yesterday & it was wild. Couldn't believe the amount of people there of all sizes, shapes and colors. Rode the Ferris Wheel, ate caramel apples and indian tacos. Mmmm it was delicious!
Yesterday was a great surf day, I could hardly get out of the water.
It was windy early in the morning & I figured there wouldn't be any good waves.
Around mid-morning, I notice the wind died down & when I looked at the waves, it was glassy!
Whaaaat? Stoked. I couldn't get my wettie on fast enough. I paddled out but unbeknownst to me, I was getting sucked out by an extreme current. I kept paddling my little ass off waiting for a huge tsunami wave to hit me on the head so I could get back to shore. Finally, caught a wave in and walked north.
I walked north and I paddled out at RJs only to find a bunch of friends. I was stoked. The waves kept getting better and better. Caught a bunch of fun, long, lefts. The water is warming up.
I love South Swells.
Its funny how when we have waves, we forget about when we don't have waves. But when its flat, all we can think about is when will some waves arrive?
Here's to Thursday. Go surf. Just not by me. Haha ;)
Yesterday "thrash-sesh" was wild and I still have sand in my ears.
Surfed an upper jetty at extreme low tide and the rip was so strong I could hardly walk through the water.
There weren't too many people out surfing, but I had a great time getting smashed into the sand by four-to-five foot barrels.
I was a little concerned that I would break my favorite board before tomorrow night's show!
It's nice having "consistent" swell.
Enjoy your day today and smile with the June Doom.
Please come out to Shaper Studios in San Diego on Friday, June 10. I am showcasing a few of my boards and they are showing the Nike 6.0 movie 'Leave a Message'. I would love the support as I am a little nervous but I know it will be a great time
Dear Hurley, Billabong, Volcom, O'Neill, and the rest...
I have been connected to the water my whole life and girls have never had board shorts that actually were functional. I commend you for creating board shorts similar to men's but that are short--the 2 inch inseams. For years, I have suffered through uncomfortable, non-stretching, and horribly designed shorts. Remember when those long, unattractive "man style" ones were in? BLAH. But now, you have finally came up with options for women. They are cute, functional, and high quality.
The only downside is that they are waaaaay overpriced. $50 for one pair of boardies. And on top of that, they are made in China. I'm guessing they cost about $2.75 to make. No wonder you can give away millions to your team riders and thousands at contests.
I am a local Newport Beach citizen and I think that more inexpensive options should be available. $25 seems like a reasonable price, doesn't it?
I thank you Corporate Surf Apparel manufactures for conquering the design and materials, but you're killing us with the price.