So stoked to have waves. It's been a dormant few weeks with ankle slappers up and down the southern coast. But finally, yesterday, the long awaited Southern swell showed up. I surfed west Newport yesterday near one of those Jetties with a few friends. It was really fun. There weren't too many people out and I ended up getting a couple little barrels and some fun, racy, down-the-line waves. Felt good! And today, I surfed somewhere in Oceanside and it was good too! The waves were peaky yet at times walled, not barreling but they had some really nice faces to do turns. I had three really good waves all the way to the beach. Super stoked.
Today I spent half the day at Moonlight Glassing and had a great time with Gary. He is an incredibly talented laminator that has been in the business for over 35 years. I'm stoked to learn from him. He made the comment, "I think she knows more than she is telling us..." hehehe, well I may, but I still want to learn. I've realized that I want to make surfboards my career so I plan to pursue it for the rest of my life.