So many feelings have ran through my body in the last couple of days that it's hard to know where to begin with. Let me see if I can express some of those:
Progression. My surfing has definitely improved within the last week. I just wish I could surf as much as I did this week all of the time. Monday started out at Uppers with some sweet, peeling lefts where I made the drop with my 9'0. Hit up San O and even though the size was on the small side, I'm more interested in entering waves with control. Had a nice left that morning I can remember because I waited for an hour for that beautiful wave. Also spent 5 hours in the water at Churches where I felt like I hit another milestone especially with short boarding.
Blessed. I am thankful for everyone and everything I have.
Encompassed. Feels good to be surrounded by friends because they are important.
Accomplished. Finished 'the Banshee' ...
Adrenaline. Willy and I paddled out Sunday afternoon without our wetsuits. Can't believe I lasted that long and I wasn't cold.
Blissful. The sea can really change your outlook.
Everything happens for a reason I think, and sometimes you are in the right place at the right time. I didn't score any epic swell with pumping sets but I did spend time with the people I love and the places I enjoy.
I know its going off out there... but have been working on this board 'The Banshee' Hotcoated yesterday and routed finboxes today. Good progress. Tomorrow it will be done. Its a really good feeling because the board is near perfect. A little heavy in my opinion, but it has a lot of volume. Slightly bigger than the standard performance shortboard.
I was right about the swell... what a beautiful surprise.
As I walked onto the sand, I looked out to see someone getting shacked in a long barrel. Incredible. Jumped for joy. Those feelings are hard to find and the best place to start would be the sea.
Paddled out near RJs. A whole bunch of my friends were already surfing and it's always a pleasure to see someone get a sick ride right in front of your eyes. Had a few peaks to choose from, lefts and rights. 4-5ft, occasional 6. Near perfect conditions. Slight offshore winds. The tide killed it though.
Surfing bigger waves changes a person's disposition. So many factors come into play like surviving underwater, ability to paddle harder, and mental attitudes change.
Didn't get any photos from today, although I wish I did. Welcome back, Zooport.
Just returned from an epic boarding night sesh up at Big Bear. Had so much fun with Zach. Woke up at the beach and went to sleep in the mountains. Pretty sweet benefits to living in Southern California. Here's some shots:
Remember back to those days where you think that the waves couldn't possibly stop firing? Perfect sets kept rolling through with a-frames standing up on the horizon. During those moments I never thought we'd go into a flat spell. It's not completely flat, but for the last few days, we've had no swell. Kinda weird. That's surfing, I guess.
Today I'm headed up to Bear for some snowboarding. Pretty excited. First time touching snow this season!
We haven't had a good swell in a while... Lots of storms and the Santa Ana's have certainly been blowing. It is nice to see clear sky and all the beautiful stars at night, but I'm so over the crappy surf and I'm ready for some clean, smooth water again. It really makes me appreciate those perfect A-frames and points we take for granted when its pumping. Funny how life still goes on without waves... does it affect your life?
Took a walk this morning down to Orange and RJ's. Looked across the raging river to Nomans and I swear I thought someone was out there trunking it. Hopefully by tomorrow or Friday it cleans up.