I have to say that was a great & worthwhile trip. Felt good to finally feel something real. And that's what I love about adventures-- you get scared, worried, nervous, impatient, lost, ... blah, everything, yet you still most likely have the time of your life. And I did. I uncovered some lost memories and discovered new places.
It's hard to go home and back to normal life. Back to work. But it's easy to dream in those moments spent drifting away from reality.
I've been contemplating what my 'style' is exactly... And what I've figured so far is that I want people to enjoy retro style in the present-day world. It's like the fusion between retro shapes and modern fin configurations. I like quads... yet can't go without my retro fish. Polished boards look classy yet if someone truly wants a sanded-clear board, I believe the possibilities are endless.
"When we were in our youth, we had dreams that we could fly, we had friends that weren't visable and love that could never die. Then as we grew older I felt the pain and we always knew the truth that love would heal if we stayed true to the dreams of our youth."
Yesterday morning I left Santa Cruz and made my way over to the El Dorado National Forest area to a little known place called Placerville. I headed a little further up to one of my best friends, Krista's house. I was super excited to see her because its been 2 years. I've spent two summers up in this neck of the woods working at Leoni Meadows. Once I got out of my car, immediately I could smell that incredible aroma of this area. I'll never forget the smell because it brings back memories.
When I arrived at Krista's, I needed a shower so bad. After two days of traveling and surfing, I felt like I smelled terrible!!
Since she lives so close to Leoni, we decided to go visit and see who we knew there. To my surprise (after two years), quite a few people were so excited to see me!! I was stoked. It was especially awesome seeing Jineane. We had lots of catching up to do. It's hard to lose friends but we picked up where we left off. So happy to see Eli, Kyle, Jacinta, and several others. Felt good being back up there and it felt almost the same as when I was living there. The scenery hasn't changed but the people have.
I've had a lot going on in my head lately but this trip has provided the necessary time for me to do some thinking. I've been able to get some good advice from true friends & that means so much to me. I've been out of the Adventist circle for almost 2 years now and that's not a bad thing.. I just needed space. But along with that, I haven't kept in contact with some good friends. I'm going to work on that.
Well that's all for now... I think we're headed to Tahoe this afternoon
Santa Cruz is an interesting town. You can tell it's very "local" and for the most part that's a really good thing. I slept really close to the Lane last night and you could hear the kids screaming on the roller coaster ride down by the pier until 11 at least. Haha it kinda scared me at first. I woke up this morning with frost on my car and it was chilly out!!! Dan was calling me to surf out front back at home--I guess there's a new South.
Drove down to check out the Lane and there were already 5-6 guys out at 5:30. I guess that is what I mean by localized. They were all in 4/3 fullsuits I'm sure with booties and most of them had hoods and gloves. Haha I couldn't help think to myself that we have it so good down south to be able to trunk it during the summer months. And then we complain that water in the mid 50's is cold!!!
I would probably would live here but honestly, life would be different if you grew up here in comparison to importing. After a while (just like any place) you would get used to the water and air temperatures. Again, we are so freaking spoiled with these 70 degree seas. I remember about 2 years ago when i was deciding where I would end up that i really wanted to live here. Such a crazy thought to recall that. This is technically the spot where i learned to surf...believe it or not. Ha and I can't believe it has been only 2 years!!! And to be honest, I didn't know how to surf, what a board felt like, or how to read waves. Hahaha. At this moment in time, its hard to believe the past, but it must be real. Almost feels like a past life now. I guess I'll go with those intensions.
So how many people do you know that have done as many things as i have in such a short period of time????? I learned to surf, shape, glass and whatever else in two fucking years. Coming up here has made me feel pretty accomplished in what I have achieved so far in life. It's what I've always wanted and what I was made for.
This trip has been much needed and I can't wait to see Krista today!!! I'm off to the inland... To Placerville. My old stomping grounds.
Definitely a change in scenery compared to Newport now.. I'm way up north in Santa Cruz. Today turned out to be a pretty cool day. I knew it wouldn't take long for people to start calling me... Only when they're desperate of course. And I'm like--sorry I'm on vacation. Didn't tell them where i was ha.
So I woke up in Ventura and after coffee, I went over to C-street and decided to paddle out. There weren't many people in the water and i even found a spot where there was only 2 people nearby. Had some fun waves there!! Then this pack of dolphins came swimming so closer to me. They were playing in the waves and surfacing all around me. It was so incredible. It's one of those things that you read about. After the surf, I took a shower and started on my way north. I didn't realize how close i was to SLO where my friend John Mellor lives. I called him up and he met me for sushi!! It was super cool to see him again and we talked story for a couple of hours. Such a nice, generous person.
After, I continued my journey north and ended up in Santa Cruz. I love this area and wished I lived up here. I found my way over to Steamer Lane to watch some great surfing. Loved it. I'm not really into rights so it wouldn't be as fun to me as a good left would be. I enjoyed the view and watching people.
I'm ready for sleep now although i have to sleep in my car. Hmm. Better find my place. Good night.
Last night started my adventure up the coast and so far, so good. Stopped in Ventura last night to sleep in my car. It's not the first time I slept in my car but I knew it was quite uncomfortable before, yet I did it again and will probably do it tonight too. Hah. I'm breaking so many social norms: a female traveling alone, and being a surfer too for that fact... And probably more. Sleeping in my car has always made me apprehensive that some one will find me or scare me... But i actually slept pretty good last night and woke up only a couple of times. It's hard to share the trunk with my surfboard. Maybe there's a better configuration.
Pretty soon I'm going to look for some waves. That's a challenge in itself because i don't know all the local spots are like down in Newport. I have been to Ventura so I am lucky because I know my way to California St. I've heard of Emma Wood and I want to check that place out.
Not sure where I'm headed after that... But it doesn't really matter because I'm free--I can go wherever want. So many people want that freedom but not many actually pursue it.
The purpose of the trip was to get away and clear my head. I enjoy a good challenge & this definitely is. No shower yet but they have one down at C-street.
This is a need. I'm sure there aren't too many people that go on road trips all by themselves...especially girls but I have wanted to take a journey like this in a while now so I am fun ally fulfilling my wishes. I'm headed North. I haven't left southern california except a couple times in two years. I'm not sure exactly where I'm gonna go but it's all about the journey. I know I will go to Krista's house up in Placerville. I should pack some tonight. I guess I just need some peace of mind & alone time. I'm not bringing much except some clothes, sleeping bag, and a surfboard. So much has happened to me & my heart. Going to revitalize myself.
So this morning, I didn't walk over to check the waves. I just put on my suit. Haha. It was terrible. I'm sitting out near the river when I hear this gasp of air. Then in about 5 seconds, four dolphins were around me!!! There was one guy about 50 yards from me & otherwise I was all alone. They looked like they were having way more fun than me since the waves were bad. It's the little things (or big) that matter most!
So I know we've had some gnar west winds come through, but I didn't expect for the water to be this cold right now. I went out with a jacket and bottoms on-- and froze my ass, legs, and feet off! Not cool. Time to get that fullsuit repaired.
I totally saw guys walking out with just trunks on & I'm like, well, they're doing it, so can I! RIIIIGHT. I saw them going back to put their fullsuits on. HA.
But on the bright side- perfect waves for my fish. A little unorganized because the sand has shifted, but still fun.
....Not something bad, although it is infectious. I couldn't sleep last night & I kept waking up thinking about surfing and this board that has been on my mind. I really want to make a new fish. Not sure if I should make it retro or not. I know its going to have a flat rocker, wide tail, and resin color work. Super stoked. I know I want to make it pink. Bright boards are the best. They make a great contrast to Newport's white board collection.
Just called Ken up & hopefully I can start shaping it today. Got the ITCH.
Swimming against the current Going against the norm Being who you want to be Not letting societal norms control your life Surfing alone Living life to the fullest Embracing change Showing your true colors Letting someone into your life Learning to love.
Newport has some West wind swell today & I was lucky enough to get out at 6. My friend Dan called me up nice and early so we paddled out for a couple of hours. We had nice lined-up peaks scattered throughout the river at first but it was kind of inconsistent and sketchy. Dan got a couple barrels and he was totally stoked because its been windy and flat for the last 3 days. Saw a lot of friends and neighbors out this morning. Plus some beautiful dolphins! A friend of Dan's was surfing a 5'9" fish (kind of like mine) so well! Was super inspired. He could get into any wave he wanted. Experience totally pays off. I was the best girl out there (and the only girl). Haha. Overall a great morning with fun waves.