Last day of 2011. Glad to see a new year and new possibilities.
Today we fished South La Jolla for the last time due to the new MLPA closures. It is very unfortunate that they are closing down so many fisheries in Southern California as well as other places in the US.
It was a beautiful day on the water. Caught 1 Sculpin and 1 Calico.
We are very excited to participate in the Toys For Tots program here in San Diego. Believe it or not there are so many children out there who do not receive Christmas presents or even have food on their table at dinnertime. It's hard to believe but it's very true. Since I wasn't buying too many presents for friends and family, this seemed like a great reason to visit the toy section.
For the boys, there is a sweet Transformer & red and black basketball. For the girls, a beautiful Barbie & a flashy pink and green soccer ball!! I hope the recipients of these small presents will enjoy & treasure them and know that they are loved.
Today as I was getting ready to go surf, the air was chilly and I knew the water was cold I was thinking about my friend Carlos who passed away suddenly back in August. Carlos would always go out regardless of the cold factor. He had one of those heater vests with the battery pack and like three 4/3's. Lucky dude! I, on the other hand, just wore a 3/2 all winter long and another friend gave me a pair of booties (that had holes in them) Ha!
Carlos wouldn't just surf for one or two hours like I did, he would be out there for three or four, even longer if it was good. I was so envious of him. Too many frozen headaches for me. When my hands and feet got cold, I'd catch one in, leaving my friend to surf for another couple of hours. When he returned home, he would always text or call me saying, "Why'd you leave so early? It got good after you left!" Guilt trip! Every time! Haha. Love it.
So today while duck diving multiple waves and two and a half hours of surfing, I am so grateful to have an influence in my life like Carlos. He pushed me to become a stronger paddler and competitive surfer, it was always a competition with Carlos. Gotta get the next wave! Today, the water instantly made my head freeze as I dove under the first few waves but it went away. I surfed better today than I ever have before. What a blessing. It feels good to be successful & develop new skills. Be thankful for the ones you care about the most.
Can't believe it's already December! Although there is no snow on the ground, the air is crisp and it's tough getting on my wet wetsuit when I feel like I'm freezing. The waves have been really fun lately. Peaky and sometimes hollow. I love winter waves.
Yesterday was no different. There were about 30 people out yesterday. It felt crowded but it was really fun.
Surfline just put up a cool feature of some of the local Newport Beach/ Costa Mesa shapers. So stoked to see my friend DLC. :) "deliiiii"
After a wonderful Thanksgiving yesterday, I paddled out this morning and was very thankful and excited to have some solid surf. It was at least 3-5 feet and some of the sets were even bigger at times. I visited a not-so-secret spot in south San Diego county and enjoyed getting held under a couple of times. The take-offs were steep and pitchy. One of my waves was exhilarating! Can't wait to go tomorrow.