Please support this great fundraiser to save the Gaviota Coast from being destroyed by development. I was recently up to that area a couple months ago and it's gorgeous! You can't find anywhere else like this in Southern California. Plus, the waves there are amazing. Winter season starts now!
I am so happy these boards are finished. My newest board is on the left: 5'7" x 19 1/4" x 2 3/8", and the one on the right is Afran's 5'9" x 20" x 2 1/2". The fins are from local fin-maker Jack Jensen. He makes the best fins in the USA! I have dedicate this board in memory of one of my best friends Annie Diaz who took her own life just a few weeks ago. So much love for Annie!
After shaping at Birds on Thursday, I began glassing Friday. I laminated both sides and hotcoated the deck. On Saturday, I set the fins and hotcoated the bottom. Although I had a couple of issues with my lam it seemed to come out pretty well. I am getting better at laminating, and still need to get better at sanding. Haha. I still have a lot of fun.
Shaped my self a new board on Thursday November 8 at Birds Surf Shed in San Diego. They have a rad shaping bay with a great in house shaper Robin Prodonovich (RP). He is extremely helpful, kind and super smart! I also had the pleasure of meeting Derek Hynd, an Austrailian legend who rides finless boards in huge waves. Stoked. Glassing is next.
One of my closest friends, Annie Gloria Diaz, took her own life just this Saturday. I was completely devastated to hear the news because her and her wonderful boyfriend Matt just returned from a fast and fun trip to Costa Rica.
I enjoyed surfing with Annie the most as well as endless conversations about everything under the sun. She was an open book. I loved being around her. She pushed me to surf harder than all the boys. I'll never forget her.
Annie, Matt, and I surfed Swami's just a couple weeks ago. We walked down from their house, crossed the tracks and paddled out, still in spring suits. All smiles in the line-up but we were ready to catch waves. I remember I had the best wave I've ever caught on my shortboard and Annie watched it after she paddled out from an amazing left before mine. I remember doing a top turn over her as she duck dove under me. After dozens of waves, we were freezing and walked back up to her house. All smiles. Happy. Stoked. I hugged her good-bye and couldn't wait to surf again soon. And that was the last...
Our trips to Lowers were the best. I would pick Annie up at her house in Cardiff and drive up to Lowers together. Sunshine, bikinis, boards, happiness. The first time she took me there, Lowers was packed with at least 100 people. But we still caught waves and had a blast. That spot was special to her. And we had other trips planned: Hawaii, Indo...
Still can't believe you're gone.
So much love for you, Annie. Prayers and love for your family.
I hope this, that someway somehow she is in a better place. We will miss you Annie <3 br="br">3>
Driving up the coast of California is one of my favorite things to do
and each time I go, I see something new. Our first night was spent at
Oceano Dunes just south of Pismo Beach. We surfed here but the waves
were super small, just 1 foot wind swell chop. Camping on the beach is
amazing. Next we headed up to Big Sur and camped at Plaskett Creek.
This is an incredible place to camp and the surf was really fun. The
waves were around 4-6 feet, super fun except the water was freezing.
Then, we headed back south to Morro Bay. What a beautiful place. It
was an amazing trip.
So if you haven't noticed, It has been flat for a week or so. I was sick during that small swell we had last week but now it's ridiculously flat. Blah. The water is still warm and I cannot wait until Thursday or Friday until we get that Tahiti south swell. MMM hope it's as good as last years.
I've been surfing quite a bit lately and working a ton so I'm getting
around to blogging now. We've had a couple back to back south swells,
nothing huge yet but we're still waiting. Around this time last year we
had the best swell of the year. My boards are ready & so am I! The weather has been soooo hot & the water is nice and warm, you'd think this was Mex. Wish it was.