Ohhhh I love Saturdays. I don't like weekend warriors, but I do like Saturdays. Today was a perfect winter-like morning. The sky had a purpleish blue hue, light traces of offshores, and glassy water. I do love Summer here because I don't have to wear a wettie and can surf for hours BUT I think I truly love winter surfing. Less crowded line-ups, chilly water, clean conditions, and you know the only people who are out are there to surf, not some summerkooks on softies.
Surfed Nomans Land this morning. Rode my 5'4" fishy. Good vibes spread through the line-up probably because it was mainly locals and a few dads with kids. My friend scored a barrel on my fish. Needless to say I was stoked cause I saw it. He commented that it is a very fast board, a little squirley, but overall a rad board. Thanks man.
One wave stood out in my mind this morning. Caught one of the set waves, went left, dropped down smoothly, and stylishly sailed down the line until the white wash crumbled in front of me. I love that free feeling when dropping down a wave. Nothing compares to that. Especially when the conditions are perfect and glassy.
I needed this SEAHAB. My soul is awakened and strengthened. Did you get some SEAHAB today? If not, grab your suit & board, let's go!