Yesterday was a great surf day, I could hardly get out of the water.
It was windy early in the morning & I figured there wouldn't be any good waves.
Around mid-morning, I notice the wind died down & when I looked at the waves, it was glassy!
Whaaaat? Stoked. I couldn't get my wettie on fast enough. I paddled out but unbeknownst to me, I was getting sucked out by an extreme current. I kept paddling my little ass off waiting for a huge tsunami wave to hit me on the head so I could get back to shore. Finally, caught a wave in and walked north.
I walked north and I paddled out at RJs only to find a bunch of friends. I was stoked. The waves kept getting better and better. Caught a bunch of fun, long, lefts. The water is warming up.
I love South Swells.
Its funny how when we have waves, we forget about when we don't have waves. But when its flat, all we can think about is when will some waves arrive?
Here's to Thursday. Go surf. Just not by me. Haha ;)