Saturday, October 30, 2010


This week in surfing has been ridiculous. So good that I know some people who've logged almost a full-time job's worth of time in the water. Some surfing three to four times a day. Never having a dry wetsuit. And some sleeping in their car so they'd be the first out. Bliss. It's a good thing this doesn't continuously happen because we would all be dead.

Some friends from up north came down for a day (and picked the best day) because they took a wrong turn and ended up at a secret spot here, saw guys getting dry stand-up barrels and were stoked out of their mind. This doesn't happen all the time.

Thursday it was glassy all day... perfect conditions.
Friday again, so incredible. Deep barrels some places... And did I mention warm water?