I was right about the swell... what a beautiful surprise.
As I walked onto the sand, I looked out to see someone getting shacked in a long barrel. Incredible. Jumped for joy. Those feelings are hard to find and the best place to start would be the sea.
Paddled out near RJs. A whole bunch of my friends were already surfing and it's always a pleasure to see someone get a sick ride right in front of your eyes. Had a few peaks to choose from, lefts and rights. 4-5ft, occasional 6. Near perfect conditions. Slight offshore winds. The tide killed it though.
Surfing bigger waves changes a person's disposition. So many factors come into play like surviving underwater, ability to paddle harder, and mental attitudes change.
Didn't get any photos from today, although I wish I did. Welcome back, Zooport.
eggs and coffee
1 day ago