Monday, March 29, 2010

Passion.




So many feelings have ran through my body in the last couple of days that it's hard to know where to begin with. Let me see if I can express some of those:

Progression. My surfing has definitely improved within the last week. I just wish I could surf as much as I did this week all of the time. Monday started out at Uppers with some sweet, peeling lefts where I made the drop with my 9'0. Hit up San O and even though the size was on the small side, I'm more interested in entering waves with control. Had a nice left that morning I can remember because I waited for an hour for that beautiful wave. Also spent 5 hours in the water at Churches where I felt like I hit another milestone especially with short boarding.

Blessed. I am thankful for everyone and everything I have.

Encompassed. Feels good to be surrounded by friends because they are important.

Accomplished. Finished 'the Banshee' ...

Adrenaline. Willy and I paddled out Sunday afternoon without our wetsuits. Can't believe I lasted that long and I wasn't cold.

Blissful. The sea can really change your outlook.

Everything happens for a reason I think, and sometimes you are in the right place at the right time. I didn't score any epic swell with pumping sets but I did spend time with the people I love and the places I enjoy.