Monday, March 29, 2010


So many feelings have ran through my body in the last couple of days that it's hard to know where to begin with. Let me see if I can express some of those:

Progression. My surfing has definitely improved within the last week. I just wish I could surf as much as I did this week all of the time. Monday started out at Uppers with some sweet, peeling lefts where I made the drop with my 9'0. Hit up San O and even though the size was on the small side, I'm more interested in entering waves with control. Had a nice left that morning I can remember because I waited for an hour for that beautiful wave. Also spent 5 hours in the water at Churches where I felt like I hit another milestone especially with short boarding.

Blessed. I am thankful for everyone and everything I have.

Encompassed. Feels good to be surrounded by friends because they are important.

Accomplished. Finished 'the Banshee' ...

Adrenaline. Willy and I paddled out Sunday afternoon without our wetsuits. Can't believe I lasted that long and I wasn't cold.

Blissful. The sea can really change your outlook.

Everything happens for a reason I think, and sometimes you are in the right place at the right time. I didn't score any epic swell with pumping sets but I did spend time with the people I love and the places I enjoy.