Wednesday, March 10, 2010


We haven't had a good swell in a while... Lots of storms and the Santa Ana's have certainly been blowing. It is nice to see clear sky and all the beautiful stars at night, but I'm so over the crappy surf and I'm ready for some clean, smooth water again. It really makes me appreciate those perfect A-frames and points we take for granted when its pumping. Funny how life still goes on without waves... does it affect your life?

Took a walk this morning down to Orange and RJ's. Looked across the raging river to Nomans and I swear I thought someone was out there trunking it. Hopefully by tomorrow or Friday it cleans up.