it was about 1 foot with a potential 2 ft. hmm... can't say it was epic.
but all that matters is being in the water.
even at my young age, i know one thing is true. you won't regret paddling out.
there might be some agros dominating the line up, or a kook dropping in on you, or possibly having to wait an hour for a set...
but truly, if you look beyond the distractions - ITS SUCH A BLESSING.
1 year ago