No lover for me except for the sea.
I got such good waves this weekend.
2-4ft, occasional 5ft. beautiful, barreling, and incredible.
Friday: 32nd with Hotsoup.
Saturday: RJs/Orange solo sesh
Sunday: RJ's solo
Monday: RJ's solo
Tuesday: RJ's with DLC and the boys
Wednesday: Nomans with Willy
Here's what I've been thinking. I notice that I enjoy surfing River Jetties the most. I'm wondering why-- there are better spots in Newport but I tend to want to surf there. Mostly on the Newport side, but occasionally if its better, at Nomans, or on Huntington side. It has become my 'comfort zone'. You can ride any kind of board there-- long or short. There are several different waves to choose from.
This is kind of like life-- we become so comfortable with where we are, that we forget to venture out and go new places. It's not always a bad thing... not sure what to think about it.
eggs and coffee
1 day ago