We spent three weeks in Bali but that definitely wasn't enough time there. The waves were insane and nothing like we have back here in California. Even on the biggest swell, those reefs in Bali were waaaay bigger.
I took some of the biggest drops in my life. Just the sight of a set on the horizon made me anxious. One wrong move and it was a crushing blow.
On the first day, I was riding a new board & it was about 6-10 feet and the current was super strong. The paddle out wasn't too tough except for the current which took me all the way around the wave. So at that point I paddled through Racetracks and over to the Bombie. I watched as guys were getting huge barrels, some with their hands stretched in the air showing how big their barrel was. I took off on a wave, made the drop and ended up not making the wave. As I was paddling back out, a huge set came through and as I was duck diving, I lost my board due to the force and my leash snapped! I was left with the cuff and my new pink board was no where to be found. I took several waves to the head and with no floatation device, I was struggling. I thought I was going to die. It was the closest to death I've ever felt. I wanted to make deals with God so I would be saved, but couldn't think fast enough. I heard the lifeguard whistling from the cliff and all of a sudden I saw this long-haired man paddling towards me with my pink board and his board trailing behind. My life was saved! I thanked the Australian over and over and couldn't be more grateful. But that wasn't the end. I had to paddle back to the cave entrance. It was impossible, I was being swept down and there wasn't any beach I could just float up to, it was shear cliffs with no end in sight. Another Australian guy came up to me and offered some advice: to paddle all the way down to Padang Padang. I was like, "Where is Padang Padang?!" Hysterical. I could hardly speak. He pointed to some buildings at least a mile or two away. That was my only option. So after I survived this insane drowning, I paddled for what seemed to be a year and finally I put my two feet on the coarse sand at Padang Padang beach. Next, I had to walk up the super high staircase. My body was burning I could hardly move. When I finally made it to our villa, I collapsed in the pool trying to cool my body down. It was an insane event that I hope never to repeat. So thankful for the two men who helped me out I wouldn't be here if it wasn't for those angels.
this is all just ones and zeros
2 weeks ago