S/SW Swell

I've been surfing a ton lately, thanks to that great south/ south west swell.  It feels good to finally have some sizable waves with some power!  The wind has been blowing early which sucks but the waves in the early morning have been dreamy!  This board is working so good, I love these fins.

I've been surfing a lot of rights lately, and as a goofy-footer, I aim for lefts most of the time.  Even at Swami's, I mostly go left.  (Now don't tell everyone that there is a left there). I am getting better and better at surfing back side, and figuring out how to do big carves and turns, floaters and hacks.  But, when I had the opportunity this afternoon to take a big really good left, I smoked it today.  It was head high.  I took off, did a big bottom turn up to the pocket and rode down the line til I could hack off the top and connect to the inside.  I finished it off with a nice top turn and floater into the white water.  I felt so good.

STOKED.