Saturday, February 5, 2011


Yesterday was a miraculous experience. I was on fire--on top of the world.
That's the way a fish should be surfed.
But today, something happened I hope never to repeat.
Tom and I paddled out at sunrise. There were about 15 people in the water but everyone was spread out. It was mostly older dudes on longboards... and then us hipsters. Hehe.
The sets were over my head and the offshore wind blew moderately.
My first wave went fine but the second scared me to death. I took off on a set wave, dropped down shakily because my toes were tucked under so when I went to turn off the bottom, I had no power. I crashed hard, my eyes felt like they were going to fall out. Then the wave picked me up and dumped me over. Thrashed. I paddled back out, sat on my board, miserable. Something wasn't right. Shortly after, a bigger set came through and I was too far inside. I was tossed in the whitewater, four waves later my body wasn't functioning. I was delusional and sick-feeling. I called for Tom to come in, then preceded to wait on the beach, almost passing out.

I wish this experience on no one.