Today was Friday & I got tha wave of my life today. Up until this point nothing has felt better. I felt high from it.
Surfed Beacons from 3 to darkness. It was crowded. Got a set wave. Dropped in so smoothly, turned gracefully off the bottom while disappearing in the wave. Cruised down the line, wavering up and down the face. It was so long. Felt like I was flying. I was high.