This week has been an eventful and exciting one--we've had continuous swell (and still are),and I've enjoyed surfing quite a bit in varying sized waves and conditions. Saw all the neighbors. Someone said the waves need to end because we need to get back to "real life".. But I disagreed because this time is so much better than the rainy weeks we had.
Today, I surfed Orange with Carlos and not many other people. It was definitely winter waves and conditions. Light offshores. Little 2-3 foot waves. And a hang over cure since I apparently got drunk last night?
About 6 weeks ago, I quit eating fast-food. My body feels so much better!! Can't wait to see and feel the results in six months. Eating healthy is my goal.
If you get a chance, check out: www.newportsurfshots.com/hotshot
Real kool guy from Newps with great photog.