Saturday, December 3, 2011


   Today as I was getting ready to go surf, the air was chilly and I knew the water was cold I was thinking about my friend Carlos who passed away suddenly back in August.  Carlos would always go out regardless of the cold factor.  He had one of those heater vests with the battery pack and like three 4/3's.  Lucky dude!  I, on the other hand, just wore a 3/2 all winter long and another friend gave me a pair of booties (that had holes in them) Ha!

   Carlos wouldn't just surf for one or two hours like I did, he would be out there for three or four, even longer if it was good.  I was so envious of him.  Too many frozen headaches for me.  When my hands and feet got cold, I'd catch one in, leaving my friend to surf for another couple of hours.  When he returned home, he would always text or call me saying, "Why'd you leave so early? It got good after you left!"  Guilt trip!  Every time!  Haha.  Love it.

  So today while duck diving multiple waves and two and a half hours of surfing, I am so grateful to have an influence in my life like Carlos.  He pushed me to become a stronger paddler and competitive surfer, it was always a competition with Carlos. Gotta get the next wave!  Today, the water instantly made my head freeze as  I dove under the first few waves but it went away.  I surfed better today than I ever have before.  What a blessing.  It feels good to be successful & develop new skills.  Be thankful for the ones you care about the most.