After a wonderful Thanksgiving yesterday, I paddled out this morning and was very thankful and excited to have some solid surf. It was at least 3-5 feet and some of the sets were even bigger at times. I visited a not-so-secret spot in south San Diego county and enjoyed getting held under a couple of times. The take-offs were steep and pitchy. One of my waves was exhilarating! Can't wait to go tomorrow.
