Friday, November 25, 2011

Good Surf

   After a wonderful Thanksgiving yesterday, I paddled out this morning and was very thankful and excited to have some solid surf.  It was at least 3-5 feet and some of the sets were even bigger at times.  I visited a not-so-secret spot in south San Diego county and enjoyed getting held under a couple of times. The take-offs were steep and pitchy.  One of my waves was exhilarating!  Can't wait to go tomorrow.