Saturday, December 11, 2010

the Present




Ohhhhhh yeahhhhh today was good.
It wasn't 10ft Pipe, but for Newport Beach, 2-3 foot was good.
I'll tell you why.
EMPTY, FOGGY, GLASSY, PERFECTION
I love the fog because no one surfs when its foggy and everyone seems to be scared that they can't see the waves.
Zooport doesn't get its name from anywhere... it's known for crowds of kooks. But today, NOPE, it was EMPTY & it was a SATURDAY.
Did I mention that it was GLASSY too? MM I love that.
This all leads to PERFECTION...
All my worries were far gone and nothing else mattered except ....

LIVING IN THE PRESENT.

Listen to this: