Do you ever have a day where it seems your surfing is incredible? The conditions, temperature, tides, whatever it might be are not optimal but you still paddle out...
Well that's what happened today. "August 15, 2010. SW swell. 1 - 3 foot. Air temp 58 degrees. Water temp 58 degrees. South wind at 4 mph."
Today I had my best day surfing so far. That's a pretty risky thing to say because I can think back to days where I had a great time with a lot of good waves. But this one has set the bar higher. I paddled out with my friend Carlos only to find that the tide push helped out the size and still at 11 in the morning it was near glassy. Surfing with him has given me a higher level of energy. It was really motivating. I wanted to 'keep up' with the boys. And I was proving it.
My wave riding ability has improved immensely and its rad to have a day like this with good vibes. I wish that every day could be like this.
this is all just ones and zeros
1 month ago