Saturday, July 30, 2011

Super Supers


Food shopping was a triiiiiip. 
Very simplified.  You only have a couple of choices.
Peanut butter and jelly sandwiches were a staple.
Mangoes, bananas, papaya and pineapple.
A pack of Imperial & we're done.

Friday, July 29, 2011

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Underwater Patterns

I love the way water bends sunlight rays. Such a beautiful pattern.
Costa Rica, mid July, 2011.

Friday, July 15, 2011

Monday, July 4, 2011

Hello Costa Rica.



After a long red-eye flight, we finally arrived in San Jose, Costa Rica on the Fourth of July. Tired, but stoked we found our way to the small bed-and-breakfast where we were staying for a few days.  I wanted to see San Jose and meet up with some shaper friends at Allocean Surfboards.  Had a great time navigating the city by bus--everyone spoke Spanish and only Spanish, the money was weird, and we had no clue where we were going.  It was wild.
 In San Jose, the food consisted of mainly of beans & rice, fried chicken, fried chicken, and pastries from the local pandarias. It was rough finding fresh vegetables and fruit.  I didn't enjoy that.
  I was able to meet up with some friends who own/run Allocean and it was a pleasure visiting the shop and seeing their new shaping machine!!
  By the weekend, we were ready to get to the beach.

Off we go.

Thursday, June 30, 2011

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

PL Surf.


Sunday was my first time surfing Point Loma.  What an adventure, where do I begin?

We launched the boat around 4 PM and headed out to find some hidden surf spots not accessible by land.  As we came around the corner, waves began breaking everywhere!!  Super stoked.  Time to surf.  The only bad thing was that it was high tide.  :(


Af dropped me off as close to the waves as possible then drove the boat out a way to avoid the 4-6 foot rolling waves.  Two guys were already surfing but left shortly after I arrived.
It was spooky.

The water was dark and the kelp was thick.
It felt like a different world.


After riding a mid-sized one, I was caught on the inside during a sizable set and kept hoping I wouldn't be flung onto the rocks. Dive, dive, dive. Finally I was back outside. 



After a couple more waves, I was over the kelp leaching onto my leash. I had a whistle so that Afran would know I wanted to be picked up.   Back to the boat.

We drove out to the main kelp so I could change and he could fish.  When we were ready to move to another location to fish, the boat wouldn't start.  Dead in the water.  Luckily we weren't still in the surf zone otherwise worse things could have happened.  Slight panic. We called Vessel Assist to tow us back to the landing.  A wire connecting the engine and the battery was corroded.  You would have never known unless you were really looking to find the frail wire. Thankfully by the grace of God and the help of Reggie, the Vessel Assist captain, we arrived back at the landing.



What a wild day.

Sunday, June 26, 2011

da Fair!

What at triiiiip.  We went to the DelMar Fair yesterday & it was wild.  Couldn't believe the amount of people there of all sizes, shapes and colors.  Rode the Ferris Wheel, ate caramel apples and indian tacos. Mmmm it was delicious!

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

KelpyKelp



Went fishing in the LJ kelp today and had lots of fun!
I didn't catch anything but I did get to fly a kite 300 meters in the air with a fishing rod. HA!



And saw a dolphin show with like 200 dolphins. They were so cool. 

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Live

Life changes are happening. 
Time to surf & fish more. 
Enjoy all of the precious moments.


Some words to live by:
"There is great reward for those who charge hard for the life they want to live."

Monday, June 20, 2011

LNF -- check them out

Found myself entertained this afternoon by this little clan of Last Name First?
Super rad.  Check out all their videos here: 

http://lastnamefirst.tv/




LNF Episode 2: Wizards of Oz from Lastnamefirst.tv on Vimeo.



LNF: Lowers Raid! from Lastnamefirst.tv on Vimeo.