weekday at san o

it was about 1 foot with a potential 2 ft. hmm... can't say it was epic.
but all that matters is being in the water.



even at my young age, i know one thing is true. you won't regret paddling out.
there might be some agros dominating the line up, or a kook dropping in on you, or possibly having to wait an hour for a set...

but truly, if you look beyond the distractions - ITS SUCH A BLESSING.

alive.

Alive...
Just open your eyes
And see that life is beautiful.

I felt completely alive today and it's one of the most liberating feelings in the world. My mentor, Ken, and I went surfing at Bolsa Chica/Seapoint today. It was insane. While the high tide was going out, we strategically paddled out past the 10 foot crushing shorepound. We made our way to the outside. Sets were rolling in at about 6-8 feet and pretty consistent. The backwash was so intense that paddling into waves was so hard. There were several people in the water, and hardly anyone was catching waves. Ken caught the 1 wave of the day and I had zero. Kinda sucked but the ride down for him felt like ski jumps and landing pretty close to that shorepound. But the challenge of paddling into those huge walls was incredible--just looking down the wall of water ...Then this set came through that was huge... I'm talking 10-12feet huge. On the way in, I was paddling towards the shore and again, facing the shorepound. I was thrown so hard against the sand and took 3 waves to the head trying to avoid my 9' longboard. I finally made it out gasping for air with the most supreme feeling. This is what it feels like to be alive.

Most important: God, Friends and Family, Surf, Love, and Life.

One of the best compliments I received. "She's a charger."

Get liberated.

summer plan

im going to do this:

if you didn’t know this already, it’s the truth: I was never content with living in one place for a long time.

this summer (well I wish I could do it longer than a month, but I need to work.)

travel up and down the california coast... just a couple surfboards, camera, backpack and a dream

take loan money... puh-lease i have the rest of my life to pay it back

life is so much more than paperwork and bs.

if I don’t do it now, ill regret it.

see yah

first board order.

I have a friend who wants to order a board from me... I am a bit nervous about this being that I've never made a board for anyone besides myself. I'm not worried about the science behind shaping or glassing... just the performance aspect. What if they blame me that their 'board doesn't paddle well' or 'its hard to catch waves'.

Criticism kills I guess.

He sees me ripping on my boards so obviously they function correctly.

gnarley

You know all that brown water rushing past your house and into the storm drains?

Well it ends up right in my backyard!

Please respect our water and stop throwing pollutants down.

seahab

when life gets me down sometimes ...i need seahabilitation

I think this is the beginning of a major adventure in my life. wanna come along for the riiiideeee?

MORE TO COME

Someday, yes!

"Some day we'll be shaping and glassing and surfing all day, won't have to answer to anybody's schedules!"

Speechless.

Adventuring

Went down south to San Diego county to scope out some new spots...
Okay I fell in love with all of them.
Here's a couple of photos I took

Saturday

Saturday
A great day of the week in order to rest and revive yourself for the rest of the week. Had a good session out this morning even though it was high tide. Nice sets came rolling in... didn't know anyone in the water-- can always tell when its a weekend and the inlanders come out. Plus they all park on my street. Today I improved my turning... felt good!

Now off to dreamland also called naptime.

swellolichious

hello my octopus friend!
sounds like you have a nice weekend going for you!! hope you have fun!

thanks for the goal, im impressed you scored 2! I have no idea how to play soccer... ha. Here's my trade: I scored 5 incredible waves today. wanna hear about them? well, the first, as promised, was for you !! it was just coming off high tide and the size was building (stoked!) so i saw this one coming on the horizon and im like.. yeah, thats mine, watch out boys! so I paddled hard and knew I was on (it was head high/OH)... so i dropped in so smoothly, came out the bottom, turned on my single, and down the line and even pulling on the wave to slow down!! i was like 'F$(@ yeah!" that one was for you, one of the best waves of the day!!

ha sorry i get so excited while writing about surfing. :)
i hope this email brings great joy and a smile to your face.

you should have been here, yesterday

december 21, 2009
Will forever be one of the best days of my life.
First, paddled out on my dinged long board at 8AM. When I first looked at it around 7:30 it was small looking but throughout the morning it began growing. There was no currant, overcast, no wind and perfection. Surfed alone on a left peak in the middle of RJ's with only a couple of guys around me. I was shredding, and it felt amazing. Got a little tired around 10:30AM so I started walking out and turns out my friends, the Froghouse guys: Beho, TK, DLC, Kalani, and all the boys were coming out. I looked back and realized the swell had grown so much... So I paddled back out with them for another half hour or so until I ate it so bad dropping in with the long board! Ha, but I was single-fin shredding!! Went home and relaxed for a while and was driving down Orange and all the boys were partying on a deck on Orange St. So I went up there for a couple beers and got a nice buzz going. We ended up paddling out around 4PM to 5PMish. Had so much fun today, best day of surfing in my life so far!

And it ended a little something like this... heaven's beautiful light shining into the world

from now to the end of time.

Consumerism has overtaken us all. We truly cannot control it, nor have we been able to for the last hundreds of years. Monetary wealth is held by the richest of rich buying billion dollar houses and yachts that they will hardly use yet most everyone strives to buy that newer tv or car. Get over yourself! There are so many things we take for granted... and I am sick of it! At this moment in time, it would be hard for me to get up and run... but it would be possible.

Here's what you could do. Find a place. Or maybe roll out a map of the world, take a dart and throw it somewhere. Where does it land? Chances are it lands on a third world country. Tahiti, Bali, Peru, Costa Rica, somewhere in Africa? Look at all those possibilities and recall the waves you've seen in magazines only touched by a few locals, some tourists over the years and the occasional group of pros or hardcore surfers chasing swell. Perfect. Next. Sell your house. Quit your job. Pack up a suitcase of clothes you already have, give away your belongings-- there are plenty of people in the USA who need it more than you do. For what worth do they have if they sit idol in a garage? Nothing. You and your materialistic ways have looted a mountain of irrelevant junk over the years. Pack a couple surfboards up, some tools, grab your suitcase, and hold on to your dreams. Let's do this!

Arrive locale. Chances are they will treat you like royalty. Offer to teach English lessons in exchange for food. Find a little hut, hang up your hammock, and proceed to live your life without those worthless plastic items. Do this. With the money you recieved from selling your house and/ or business, why not set up shop in the locale of your choice. You're not in this for business, so don't get the idea that you need a CNC or anything besides blocks of foam imported from the nearest civilized area. Here you go: ask a trusted friend of family member to send you a couple blocks of foam every few months... Use the local trees to create stringers. Make your blanks. Shape the board. Glass. Finish. Then give them away for free to the local people. You're changing lives. They have nothing. You have everything. Skill. Money. Talent. Love. Generocity. They are just people who work for the daily wage of putting dinner on the table for their family. Teach the kids English. Therefore, maybe someday they will be able to go to school or college one day and possibly make a change to this terrible consumeristic world we live in because their roots are firmly planted in a society that doesn't revolve around the next pair of shoes.

Live your life this way. Surely, it will be a blessing because you are doing this to serve others. To make others happy. You'll have empty, perfect waves... for the rest of your life.

Believe.