Saturday, July 7, 2012

Southern waves make me..

So stoked to have waves.  It's been a dormant few weeks with ankle slappers up and down the southern coast.  But finally, yesterday, the long awaited Southern swell showed up.  I surfed west Newport yesterday near one of those Jetties with a few friends.  It was really fun.  There weren't too many people out and I ended up getting a couple little barrels and some fun, racy, down-the-line waves.  Felt good!  And today, I surfed somewhere in Oceanside and it was good too!  The waves were peaky yet at times walled, not barreling but they had some really nice faces to do turns.  I had three really good waves all the way to the beach.  Super stoked.