Saturday, July 7, 2012
Southern waves make me..
So stoked to have waves. It's been a dormant few weeks with ankle slappers up and down the southern coast. But finally, yesterday, the long awaited Southern swell showed up. I surfed west Newport yesterday near one of those Jetties with a few friends. It was really fun. There weren't too many people out and I ended up getting a couple little barrels and some fun, racy, down-the-line waves. Felt good! And today, I surfed somewhere in Oceanside and it was good too! The waves were peaky yet at times walled, not barreling but they had some really nice faces to do turns. I had three really good waves all the way to the beach. Super stoked.