Saturday, August 6, 2011

Playa Grande

Playa Grande is one of my favorite surf spot in my world.  It was incredible.  It faces south, so south swells pump on the beach with beautiful peaks between 4-10 feet.  Did I mention barrels, long tapered faces, and rampy air sections?  What a blissful place.   It almost felt like Newport once in a while because I love Newport on a good South.

One of my best waves included a 6 foot drop, instant bottom turn right into the barrel, spit out, speed down the shoulder, and pop out the back screaming, "yeeeeeeeee"!   

We surfed Grande for almost 2 weeks straight and the swells kept pumping.  Absolute bliss.

Can't wait to surf more big waves.  Teahupoo? :)