FIRING

It's firing and I don't know how I will be able to sleep.
8-10 footers tonight balahahahaha it was magical.

Circle

Forever in my memory, heart, and soul.

Paddle Out for Carlos

Today was a very special day.  The amount of people at the beach today was incredible.  Carlos, you were truly an amazing person with a great spirit and beautiful heart.  You touched so many lives, probably without knowing it.  But everyone knows you snaked them though so you can't get away with that.  :)  

There's so many things I wish I could have told you.  I'm so tempted to dial your number to go surfing.  You'd always say yes.  

 

Your spirit will live on in my heart and in Newport, Miami, and around the world. 

 Your name lifted to the heavens.

Teahupoo Tow-in

What an insane vid.  Wish I could do this someday.

Memorial

Sunday, August 28, 2011
1 PM. Orange Street.

Carlos Montejo, forever

SURF FOREVER.


I am very, very sad..
Our world and small surf community has lost a beautiful person.

Carlos, one of my best friends, I will never forget you.

  You always looked out for me when we were surfing. I won't ever forget you shredding my new pink Barbie board, and even managed to get barreled before me.

I loved surfing with you and you always pushed me to become a better surfer because you were so good.  


Whenever I called you to surf, you'd always ask me, "Did you look at it?" Haha and I would say, "Well I'm going to look at it."  You'd always laugh and say, "Go look at it and call me back."   


There were days where it was just us, no one else, and it was stormy and all over the place.  I wouldn't say anything about going in because I knew it was my idea to surf.  One day, I remember, you got only 1 wave and I had 0.  Yet other days, Newport was perfect and you were the star getting more waves than anyone.  I'd always see you paddling from the inside.  Smiling. 


62st - RJ's will NEVER be the same without you. 

We used to go everyday, rain or shine, big or small waves.


Thank you for the inspiration you brought to my life.
I will always remember laying out in the sun, drinking a beer, and relaxing after the surf sesh. So many fun times of Laventinas, Big Belly, and Coronas!  Yeah, it's 219 62nd St.... the back house.  Haha the delivery guy knew who you were every time. 


You always made me watch football and basketball with you even though I wasn't interested.

I'm sorry for letting your cat out one night when you were injured and we had to stumble around the neighborhood trying to find him. I knew you were upset. Finally in the morning he returned home and you were happy with me once again. 

I wish more than anything in the world that I could have said "Good-bye" to you, that we could have gone surfing one last time, bike around the neighborhood, smile, laugh, play, and lay out on the deck one last time.   I loved all of our times together. 


My life will not be the same without you and I cannot stop crying every time I think of you. ♥ ♥ ♥

 Loved celebrating your big birthday with a special cupcake!

 Shredding at O street

 Carlos, lost somewhere in Costa Rica

 Always smiling.

 Loved it.

SURF FOREVER, CARLOS.   You always will be in my heart.

Glassyyy

Old Blank - New board

 Today I shaped a new board out of an old beat up blank.
After plenty of sanding, cutting off fish tails, thinning it out, and trying to fix all the dings, ...  It turned out like this.
The photo may be deceiving but I think it will be a fun keel fin ride!

HAPPY FRIDAY!!!

AI remembered

Always remember our fallen watermen.

FUN!

Kelly's Take on NYC

NYC doesn't seem like a world class surf spot, but is there something most people don't know? 
I am excited to see the Quik Pro NYC starting September 3-12.  They could have epic waves (if a hurricane rolls in) or could get skunked.  Waiting to see what happens. 

I like Kelly's perspective ... watch and see.

HOME FROM COSTA RICA!!

Finally, I am back home. 
It's definitely cooler here, and the air is drier.
I bet the water is going to be a shocker when I go surf today. 
Watch for all my posts from my 5 amazing weeks in Costa Rica.
yewwwwww

Headed Home!

The airport in San Jose, Costa Rica was rad. 
We set up the self-timer on the camera to get this shot.
"Home is whenever I'm with you"


Escuchas:

Playa Grande

Playa Grande is one of my favorite surf spot in my world.  It was incredible.  It faces south, so south swells pump on the beach with beautiful peaks between 4-10 feet.  Did I mention barrels, long tapered faces, and rampy air sections?  What a blissful place.   It almost felt like Newport once in a while because I love Newport on a good South.

One of my best waves included a 6 foot drop, instant bottom turn right into the barrel, spit out, speed down the shoulder, and pop out the back screaming, "yeeeeeeeee"!   

We surfed Grande for almost 2 weeks straight and the swells kept pumping.  Absolute bliss.

Can't wait to surf more big waves.  Teahupoo? :)

Grande

Playa Grande.... one of my favorite places in the world.
Sunshade was definitely needed.  HOT

Krabbies!

K is for Krab. Krab. Krab. Krab!!