Friday, June 25, 2010


I have a lot on my mind tonight. The harder the body works, the more developed it becomes. That's an obvious philosophical observation but I believe it's true.

First. I've really improved my surfing this week. The waves here have been small and sorta crappy at times, but overall they have been really fun for me. My fish rides like a champion. I believe I've improved because we had a week without barrels and I needed the confidence of not getting slammed by the lip or free falling. So, I am feeling more comfortable with my take-offs.

We are supposed to have a new South Swell rolling through starting tomorrow. Everyone is waiting patiently to see what it brings. A friend and I are going out at 5:30 AM. Ha. DP for shore. I hope all surfers are getting wasted tonight so no one will be out surfing. We have decided that I am going to throw a massive block party so I can get everyone drunk and hungover for some empty waves.

Second. Why am I obsessed with board building? I want to try and answer this the best I can but there could be so many explanations in my complex mind that I don't know if I can think of them all. Okay- it could be 'the chase' of making more and more to experiment or whatever. But that can help me in the long run. Financially, not so much unless people are buying them. Which I intend they do. With time, it will happen. It could also be desire. Not sure how to explain that but there is amazing feelings of accomplishment when you finish a board. Sometimes things like this are stepping stones. Like, where you are going in life. Each one tells a story of a certain time. Good or bad. For example: my long board is so beat up because it fell off the roof of a van & also a friend's fin put a gnar crack in the tail... so it looks terrible. I hate that board. But I don't have the heart (yet) to cut it up. Shaping also is like stepping into the unknown. Each board can come out differently just by using a tool right or wrong. That's so rad to me. It makes me want to be a better shaper so achieve consistency and technique. When you start with a blank, it looks so bitter, so uninviting. This subsides until the first few planer passes tear away the crusty exterior revealing the fresh white delicacy. From there, so many things can happen. Outline affects everything. If that goes bad--the board's fucked.

So I guess I haven't found my reason. Plus I could go on with my love/hate relationship with glassing. I am loving it more than I hate it.

Not sure what else to say.
But I love this board