Lammed

Color my world with wild colors.  Fun times today.

Friday shape finished

Ready to glass tomorrow. 

Shape shape

At the new shop in Oceanside

The Next Best Thing

 This thing looks really fun already, and I just started it! It's 5'8" and 20" wide and 2 1/3 thick.
Quad fin set up ready to fly!  Can't wait til it's done.

 Having a blast!

Lots of shape time since the ocean looks like this.  Hope it cleans up and we get some wave soon.
Happy Monday!

Puerto E

I love big wave surfing and hope to get into it someday soon. 

Free diving

Gorgeous video of free diving with Mark Healy, the clarity is amazing.
I've been contemplating getting in to free diving lately.  Wish our water was warmer.

Back in Action!

 My new local spot is so fun!!  Yesterday, I surfed here in the morning with only 6 other people on a peak and I was catching the most waves.  I got mini barreled on a few nice 4 foot wave then popped out only to do several carves and turns off the top.  Such a great day.  I love my pink fish more and more because of days like these.

 Also, yesterday I stopped by my favorite shop Foam-EZ for a couple new blanks.  I'm ready to shape!

Underwater

I've always had an affinity to water, you'd think I was half dolphin.

Old + New = Progression

 Today, we took an old classic, the orange fish, out with my newest creation, the singlefin monofish out to play.  Rode a ton of waves, smashed lips, and did some big turns.  Enjoyed every moment.  It was the red monofish's first day out so I was stoked yet also nervous of how it was going to ride and paddle.  To my surprise, the board works so well.  It flies down the line and turns on a pivot due to it's big single fin.  Love it.  Can't wait to ride it some more.  As for the tried and true orange fish, I was happy to have it back in the water and it still rides amazing. 

The singlefin monofish is only 5'8"x 19 3/4" x 2 1/3 but it has an 8" fin.  WILD

yesterday

Didn't surf here but checked the waves near dusk.
beautiful surprise!

HB

What a great shot by Mike Moir.  I don't surf at HB pier but I've seen it good quite a few times.

On another note, it's been 6 months since my dear Carlos Montejo passed.  He's been in my thoughts every day since and I will never forget. 

Surfing lately

I've been surfing so much lately because we've had some good swell.  It wasn't too big but around the 3-5 foot range and consistent.  Yesterday was a memorable one.  It was crowded due to the holiday but I managed to catch 15 waves, half rights and half lefts.   Love doing big turns on my quad fish, plus it's super fast down the line.  Today was much smaller but hope we get some swell soon.
(photo: borrowed from Surfline)