the Lover

Today has been a wonderful day.
Surfed RJ's this morning, so good to see everyone. I love RJs.
I love my friends and ohana. I miss living in the shores.
Feels good to surf in a lineup where I know everyone.
You can surf everywhere but there's nothing like a home break!

This afternoon, I went to the shop and finished my new retro fish.
5'8" x 20 1/2" x 2 1/2"
It looks beautiful.
Named: the Lover.
Gonna be PINK.
hehehe. girly!

I'm ready for my fishing adventure tomorrow with Afffff.

Wild

LIFE IS WILD STYLE.
I couldn't imagine living a boring life.
We've gone through a lot this weekend and my time on the water has been limited.
I'm thankful for the people I have in my life.
Now it's time for relaxation.

Spottie Special

Shamu Secret Spot. Friday the 18. Caught 12 Spotted Bay Bass, 1 Halibut, and 1 Calico.
Got a fishing license, picked out my own swimbaits, and fished 7 PM to 2 AM.
Saturday the 19 at Floaty Island . Lost track of how many fish I actually caught. Maybe like 20?
Definitely caught 2 Barracudas, 1 baby Calico, 1 Big-eyed Perch, and a million Spotties.

Aquarium

La Jolla aquarium . mmm fun times.

RIP Sion

Sion Milosky Biggest Wave Ever Paddled into from abstractlines.tv on Vimeo.

SUP

Check out my friend Brian down at Dana Point!!

Yesterday

You should have been here... yesterday.
Couldn't ask for a more beautiful March day.
Slept in, made crepes, and went fishing on the open ocean.
Blissful.
Wild rides over the traveling waves.
Playing tag with the dolphin family
Watching the pelicans dive into the water
It felt so good.
This is what life's all about.
Can we go back to yesterday?
xo

We only caught 1 fish.
Just the wide open ocean.

Foamy II

Shapin' tha rails.
Fred's kool but I use tha planer.

Foamy

Good times shapin' today at Ken's shop.
Made progress on my new board..
Gettin tha rails equal and thinner was my main priority.
gotta love girls we are so feminine.
holding the tools 'wrong' with our fingers so daintily.
I call it my feminine 'touch'
Had fun with the planer -- making perfect passes, I was so happy that I didn't hack it up.


More photos coming soon!