holiday weekends

Long holiday weekends are the best.

Only surfed a couple of times-- like Saturday morning and it was super low tide but had some mini barrels. Didn't get any barrels though ;( Sad face. It was kinda walled too. Did some 'land' stuff like biking and skateboarding.

Everything takes me back to the sea....

Freezing in May?

Came back rather quickly with an ice cream dreaded headache. Gnarley. Waves were like 4 feet, clean and looked fun. Looked like a fun morning & I was ready to surf for at least an hour or two. Well I lasted like 20 minutes. All my muscles froze up, could hardly stand on the board to get my last wave in. BRR & WTF! Shouldn't May be warm?

Hawaii 1930's

I received these beautiful 1930's Hawaiian menu illustrations today.
So incredible, especially for the time time period.
Thanks Strong!

Can Almost Feel It

Maybe you'll understand.
Think of one of your goals in life... and imagine something coming in the way so you can't fulfill it. Just one thing in the way. That's how I feel right now.

So I want to do mission work ... and I found a great organization I can go through. They seem to have a sweet program. Its called Surfing The Nations.

Some things just pull on your heart. Make you wanna grab a few boards and your stuff & run.

Man I just want to fulfill that feeling just ONCE.

PLEASE.

21 !!!!!!!!!!!!

So I'm an adult now? Haha.
Let's just say I 'survived'

In Spirit.

There's a South Swell right now... man... I'm there in spirit.
I hope you are getting waves because I'm not. :(

Revolve.

Everything seems to get in the way... but I am always led back to the sea.
It just feels right.