alive.

Alive...
Just open your eyes
And see that life is beautiful.

I felt completely alive today and it's one of the most liberating feelings in the world. My mentor, Ken, and I went surfing at Bolsa Chica/Seapoint today. It was insane. While the high tide was going out, we strategically paddled out past the 10 foot crushing shorepound. We made our way to the outside. Sets were rolling in at about 6-8 feet and pretty consistent. The backwash was so intense that paddling into waves was so hard. There were several people in the water, and hardly anyone was catching waves. Ken caught the 1 wave of the day and I had zero. Kinda sucked but the ride down for him felt like ski jumps and landing pretty close to that shorepound. But the challenge of paddling into those huge walls was incredible--just looking down the wall of water ...Then this set came through that was huge... I'm talking 10-12feet huge. On the way in, I was paddling towards the shore and again, facing the shorepound. I was thrown so hard against the sand and took 3 waves to the head trying to avoid my 9' longboard. I finally made it out gasping for air with the most supreme feeling. This is what it feels like to be alive.

Most important: God, Friends and Family, Surf, Love, and Life.

One of the best compliments I received. "She's a charger."

Get liberated.

summer plan

im going to do this:

if you didn’t know this already, it’s the truth: I was never content with living in one place for a long time.

this summer (well I wish I could do it longer than a month, but I need to work.)

travel up and down the california coast... just a couple surfboards, camera, backpack and a dream

take loan money... puh-lease i have the rest of my life to pay it back

life is so much more than paperwork and bs.

if I don’t do it now, ill regret it.

see yah

first board order.

I have a friend who wants to order a board from me... I am a bit nervous about this being that I've never made a board for anyone besides myself. I'm not worried about the science behind shaping or glassing... just the performance aspect. What if they blame me that their 'board doesn't paddle well' or 'its hard to catch waves'.

Criticism kills I guess.

He sees me ripping on my boards so obviously they function correctly.

gnarley

You know all that brown water rushing past your house and into the storm drains?

Well it ends up right in my backyard!

Please respect our water and stop throwing pollutants down.

seahab

when life gets me down sometimes ...i need seahabilitation

I think this is the beginning of a major adventure in my life. wanna come along for the riiiideeee?

MORE TO COME

Someday, yes!

"Some day we'll be shaping and glassing and surfing all day, won't have to answer to anybody's schedules!"

Speechless.

Adventuring

Went down south to San Diego county to scope out some new spots...
Okay I fell in love with all of them.
Here's a couple of photos I took

Saturday

Saturday
A great day of the week in order to rest and revive yourself for the rest of the week. Had a good session out this morning even though it was high tide. Nice sets came rolling in... didn't know anyone in the water-- can always tell when its a weekend and the inlanders come out. Plus they all park on my street. Today I improved my turning... felt good!

Now off to dreamland also called naptime.

swellolichious

hello my octopus friend!
sounds like you have a nice weekend going for you!! hope you have fun!

thanks for the goal, im impressed you scored 2! I have no idea how to play soccer... ha. Here's my trade: I scored 5 incredible waves today. wanna hear about them? well, the first, as promised, was for you !! it was just coming off high tide and the size was building (stoked!) so i saw this one coming on the horizon and im like.. yeah, thats mine, watch out boys! so I paddled hard and knew I was on (it was head high/OH)... so i dropped in so smoothly, came out the bottom, turned on my single, and down the line and even pulling on the wave to slow down!! i was like 'F$(@ yeah!" that one was for you, one of the best waves of the day!!

ha sorry i get so excited while writing about surfing. :)
i hope this email brings great joy and a smile to your face.